please help lost in a V8 swap

[mudwarrior]

like the title says.im in the middle of doing the swap and the truck is a 88 4x4ranger.it had a 2.9 in it but it was toast.i have been researching everything i can but just lost on a couple of things.Im puting in a 302 with a AOD.i want to make my own mounts.so the question is what year 4.0 ranger mounts should i use and if any one a has some rough measurements where the motor should sit.the motor has a rear sump pan if that matters.thanks for the help just another newbie tryin to join the v8 club.

 

[baddad457]

Where the motor will sit will depend on where it meets the transfer case. Unless you move the t/F case, you're commited to that point.

 

[mudwarrior]

well i did a SAS also.so the tranny and transfer case mount need to be fab up so i can put the motor where i want to but i would like to put it in the proper location.that is why im stuck right now,i dont have that to help locate it.

 

[mudnsnow]

Look on tech library, all info are there it's where i find all i've needed to do my swap. On mine for the engine support i've installed 92 4.0L motor mount, i've made the 3/8 inch plate(look for the model on tech library) to fix it to the engine and drill new hole into the crossmember. Where the motor should sit ? Try to have the more clearence possible between the rad and the engine (cut heaterbox, hand use a little bit the sledgehammer on the firewall, clear the steering column on the left and try to keep enough space to the right for the exhaust. On mine i've installed a mustang oil pan, with the rear sump pan i Wasnt able to sit the engine lowest enought to close the hood.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

well i dont have measurements. but here is a general rule of thumb. make sure you have atleast an inch of firewall clearence. make sure the engine is not too low in the framerails. make sure the header/manifolds will clear. make sure you have room for the hood to close. the engine needs to idealy sit 2-3 degrees down in the rear for proper alignment.
when all of this is taken in, you will have the motor exactly where you want it.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

Putting it back as far as you can will help with your radiator fit.But dont kill yourself aganst the firewall either.
I dont think there is really a blueprint as to where you set the engine,front ,back side to side,not a lot of room to cheat either way.
Try to line up the drive line front and back and see what you have.

 

[mudwarrior]

thanks for the info.i have been lookin through the tech section and not finding anything specific but i could be blind.i have mounts for a 94 ranger but when i try to put my plates i it seems to have the passenger side sit higher then the driver side.also i seem to have clearance problems with the oil pan should i go to a dual sump?

 

[mudwarrior]

i forgot to mention that i have also installed a 3inch bodylift.so i have plenty of hood clearance.after takin a look the passenger mount sit a touch higher then the driver side on the k member is the normal i take it.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

well the engine needs to sit level side to side. be centered in the chassis. and the front of the engine needs to be level so the engine and drivetrain dont go off on an angle.

 

[mudnsnow]

Mine whith the dual sump pan, and the Bronco intake have about 3/4 inch hood clearence with a 3 inch BL

 

[RangerFabWorks]

and if you have a 3 inch body lift. then just lift the engine higher to fit your needs. just make sure to not got too high.

 

[mudwarrior]

Thanks again for all the help couldn't be building the ranger without you guys.well i could but it wouldn't look as good.

 

[vertlmt94]

http://www.atlas-tc.com/pdf/712/713018.pdf
these are just 79-93 mustang engine mounts switched to opposite sides. I bought the solid mounts from blue oval industries and used this diagram. Worked perfect on my 94.

 

[88mudder]

85 mustang convertible mounts work well. The stud is welded onto the mount. What i did before was cut the welds so the bolt is free. Bolt the mounts to your engine and set the engine in the bay exactly where you want it so the motor mounts are flush all the way down on the x-member. (keep in mind radiator and fan clearance) mark your holes and just drill new holes and your good to go. You may want to take the engine out of the bay again to drill new holes, its worth it trust me.