need a pic
can someone with an 86 ranger post a pic of were there wiring goes through the firewall and into the cab please?
can someone with an 86 ranger post a pic of were there wiring goes through the firewall and into the cab please?
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plans for my 86 ranger
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i don't think that's the original wiring harness
ok so this morning i was looking for breaks in the wires thats would cause the door buzzer to work only after banging on the dash with the door open....and i noticed a little black box on the underside of the dash (any clue what it is? it is near the fuse block) and also that there were "loose ends" on the wiring harness, there is one in the cab and three in the engine compartment, the one that bothers me is one of the ones in the engine compartment, there is a "cap" on it and when i remove the cap the engine runs really low and sounds like a carb'ed engine when i tap the gas (almost like back fire) and was wondering is ther a senser thats supposed to be in there? (it is right above the PVC valve
the silver line on the valve cover is were it rests
i think this might be for the clutch(thats not there......)(this is the one in cab it is under the steering wheele but at the firewall.
and this is were on the other side of the firewall
i guess this is either good or bad, i cant tell witch yet.....
when you go from the 2.9 to a 4.0 do you have to change the wiring harness?
ok so this morning i was looking for breaks in the wires thats would cause the door buzzer to work only after banging on the dash with the door open....and i noticed a little black box on the underside of the dash (any clue what it is? it is near the fuse block) and also that there were "loose ends" on the wiring harness, there is one in the cab and three in the engine compartment, the one that bothers me is one of the ones in the engine compartment, there is a "cap" on it and when i remove the cap the engine runs really low and sounds like a carb'ed engine when i tap the gas (almost like back fire) and was wondering is ther a senser thats supposed to be in there? (it is right above the PVC valve
the silver line on the valve cover is were it rests
i think this might be for the clutch(thats not there......)(this is the one in cab it is under the steering wheele but at the firewall.
and this is were on the other side of the firewall
i guess this is either good or bad, i cant tell witch yet.....
when you go from the 2.9 to a 4.0 do you have to change the wiring harness?
ok so after having the truck in the shop for to weeks (to see why there is such a loss of power while under load) the shop said there wasn't much they could do...(except replacing it)(no, i am not getting a new engine,......yet...)
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The door chime module is above your glove box.
The first pic you ask what it is. That is the SPOUT, the plug is removed to time the engine correctly, leave it in there unless you are retiming.
Not sure what the jumpered wire is, any clutch wiring should be all the way on the left above the park brake
The last pic of the red and grey connectors are the OBDI diagnostic connectors, plug in a tester here.
The first pic you ask what it is. That is the SPOUT, the plug is removed to time the engine correctly, leave it in there unless you are retiming.
Not sure what the jumpered wire is, any clutch wiring should be all the way on the left above the park brake
The last pic of the red and grey connectors are the OBDI diagnostic connectors, plug in a tester here.
new plans....
oh thanks! the jumper wire is up by the parking break....
change of plans!
1. 4.0l swap!
2. m5od-r1hd
3. d35, 7.5 (or learn how to weld good)
4. bw 1354m
5. 30's
side note, this is going to be a really slow build.....
other side note, i think what im going to try to do is, just collect all the goodies then do everything at once..... (if the engine doesn't die before then......)
oh thanks! the jumper wire is up by the parking break....
change of plans!
1. 4.0l swap!
2. m5od-r1hd
3. d35, 7.5 (or learn how to weld good)
4. bw 1354m
5. 30's
side note, this is going to be a really slow build.....
other side note, i think what im going to try to do is, just collect all the goodies then do everything at once..... (if the engine doesn't die before then......)
update: we are moving to someplace in Colorado, the bad news is my muffler fell off...... the great news is, the truck will be put in the shop at my dads work, bad news is, i don't know when we leave......
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Put the 8.8 out of the vehicle you get the D35 out of in yours so that your gearing is the same plus have a stronger rear end. Just seems easiest to me.
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subscribed!
good news, we finally moved in, bad news.... the mechanic was in court so dad didnt get the muffler put back on...... new part to the plan, knock the cats out(there is no amount of drain cleaner to fix that), and (somewhat) straight pipe it,
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