Pinion angle and driveshaft u joint angles?

[Hagan]

Its time to build a driveshaft for my Ranger. I'm using a full width 8.8 out of a 92-96 F-150. I've chosen to use an Explorer driveshaft and have it shortened. I was talking to the driveshaft guy and he said that the pinion angle and output flange have to be within 4 degrees of each other. I have a 7 degree difference.

My pinion is pointing straight at the back of the tcase. I for some reason thought that was the way to build it when I built it. I researched some and basically what I've found for a perfect street vehicle (Except mines a lifted truck) that the pinion angle needs to be in line with the output of the tcase.

If I lower pinion down to the same angle as the drivetrain the u joint would have a bad angle on it. If I lower the drivetrain to match the pinion it would be hanging down so low. I don't understand how any of this is possible and how a lifted truck could maintain these specific guidelines.

Does anyone have any clue on what to do? I'm so lost...

 

[Ford78]

If the angle's are bad you will want a cv style drive shaft. With a cv driveshaft u will need the rear pinion pointed at the transfercase. With just regular u joints you need the pinion at the same degree as the transfercase yoke/flange.

 

[Hagan]

If the angle's are bad you will want a cv style drive shaft. With a cv driveshaft u will need the rear pinion pointed at the transfercase. With just regular u joints you need the pinion at the same degree as the transfercase yoke/flange.

Thank you Ford78!

I guess I will need a cv style driveshaft. Is it possible to attach a cv directly to a yoke (ujoint to yoke)? I know my 92 Brono has a cv at the tcase but it's a flange. So maybe I'll pull just the cv at a junk yard.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm not a guru and haven't researched this for a long time. The b-2's used a double carden joint...it's two u-joints beside each other. Perhaps something similar could be built for you. And here is a link to a pdf from ford;
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12939&d=1389987591

 

[bobbywalter]

I'm not a guru and haven't researched this for a long time. The b-2's used a double carden joint...it's two u-joints beside each other. Perhaps something similar could be built for you. And here is a link to a pdf from ford;
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12939&d=1389987591

thats what 78 meant by a cv joint.


i would run the single single first with the pinion about 1-1.5 degrees lower then the t case so its perfect under cruise conditions. just put heavy tack welds on the perches....if its good....weld the perches up. if you dont like it re-configure with the cv style to work with your setup....they can be whatever you need.....flange-strap-bolt....pick your ideal.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've always thought a "cv" joint was the one with the balls and sockets.

 

[bobbywalter]

I've always thought a "cv" joint was the one with the balls and sockets.

it is.

but the double carden joint is also mis-nomered as a cv joint as well...well sort of.. it is a type of cv joint, but not as true as the ball style.

 

[Ford78]

thats what 78 meant by a cv joint.


i would run the single single first with the pinion about 1-1.5 degrees lower then the t case so its perfect under cruise conditions. just put heavy tack welds on the perches....if its good....weld the perches up. if you dont like it re-configure with the cv style to work with your setup....they can be whatever you need.....flange-strap-bolt....pick your ideal.

That's what I meant, I could not think of the real name for it, cv was just popping in my head.

 

[Hagan]

thats what 78 meant by a cv joint.


i would run the single single first with the pinion about 1-1.5 degrees lower then the t case so its perfect under cruise conditions. just put heavy tack welds on the perches....if its good....weld the perches up. if you dont like it re-configure with the cv style to work with your setup....they can be whatever you need.....flange-strap-bolt....pick your ideal.

I should run a single ujoint on each end first? Then if it doesn't work switch to a double cardan?

Thanks!

 

[bobbywalter]

thats what i would do.


simpler and cost effective.


just put the pinion down a degree or so so it rolls up good under load.

.5-1.5 degrees usually works great for me. depends on how soft the springs are and how often you load it up heavy etc.

 

[don4331]

Hagan:

Not sure a couple of your questions were addressed:

Jim did a really good article in '08: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.shtml

So, if you don't have too crazy of gears, reasonably large tires and don't drive too fast, you should be fine. My Ranger at 100 km/h, (31x10.5R15/4.10s) has drive shaft rpm of ~2,700, so 7° would be slightly excessive (won't last rated life/there will be vibration).

There are yoke double cardans - if you have Jeep transfer case, there is hope, otherwise odds get real slim. See Tom Wood's, http://www.4xshaft.com/ Double Cardan conversion for examples.

Don