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Pics Carb/ Idle no power Help!


so based on your answer to my question, you/we have found the problem. The choke plate should be fully open after about 1 1/2 miinutes to 2 minutes after starting a cold engine; if the engine is warm it will be less. So either the choke housing is not adjusted correctly, or the electric choke is broken or you have a wiring problem bringing power to the choke housing.
 
Part it out and get a 1986 or newer. I love my fuel injection.

PART IT OUT?!?!?:stop:
Better yet: Duraspark it & get rid of that troublesome TFI carb setup! :icon_thumby: The whole computer & that worthless carb. goes bye bye!!!:bye:

Back to basics bro!!!!!!!!!:c-n:
 
Kinda starting to like these ideas of parting out or looking into this duraspark. what the Duraspark Replace?
 
Don't give up & part her out!!! I know it's frustrating, but if you give up now you will not get to enjoy the endless joy that the BII will bring. Stay with it & you will be addicted!!!!:icon_thumby:

It is hard to diagnose your problem without actually being there, but I almost guarantee the Duraspark conversion will eliminate your problem & it's not as expensive as it looks..Not to mention it does wonders for the way the truck runs!!!!:icon_thumby:

I am not sure where you are located, but you are probably a long way from me here in TN......?????

By the way, the Duraspark conversion as you read on the link from skippy gets rid of the computer & all related wiring as well as the computer controlled carb. You will be running an "old school" simple 2 barrel carb. & ignition setup,that's why I say "back to basics":c-n:
 
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Yeah i really dont wanna give up. Is there a link to purchasing one of the Duraspark Conversions. The simpler the better i think. Looking for one for my 84 4x4. And yes im quite the distance from TN. Here in AZ. Thanks
 

Did you check out the above link from skippy? It gives you the part #'s of everything you need, where you can get em, & how to do it.

If you know someone who is familiar with vehicles, it is not hard to do, my dad is a mechanic for a living & I got him to help me out & he had it figured out pretty easy. Some things I can do, but I wasn't familiar with this. After watching him, I have a general idea now.

Yeah, Az. is a long way from Tn, if I were closer I would help out. Good luck!:icon_thumby:
 
Yeah i really dont wanna give up. Is there a link to purchasing one of the Duraspark Conversions. The simpler the better i think. Looking for one for my 84 4x4. And yes im quite the distance from TN. Here in AZ. Thanks

Prepare to spend about $130 on duraspark parts and you'll need a non-feedback carb(motorcraft 2150) from a 78 or 79 pinto or mustang 2.8L.

Another carb option is a holley 350cfm 2 barrel from Summit Racing,about $275-$285 new in the box.

I printed out the tech pages on duraspark,ordered the parts and allowed a full day under the hood.Spent 4 hours approximate on duraspark and about a year dialing in the 350 carb,now getting 20 mpg w/#53 jets and #65 power valve and I have enough power to lay rubber even though I went up to 15" tires.I absolutely love duraspark and you will too!

If you have to get emmissions checked,duraspark won't be an option for you.
 
Yes i still need to go through emissions. Does this mean that i cannot do the duraspark conversion? And ill relook over the link
 
Yes i still need to go through emissions. Does this mean that i cannot do the duraspark conversion? And ill relook over the link

It all depends on how thorough the emissions check is where you live, I have emissions check here & I pass every time with flying colors, all 3 of mine are D/sparked. All they do here is probe the exhaust pipes & use a mirror to make sure the "cat" is in place (just cause it's there....doesn't mean the guts are! :icon_rofl:what they don't know won"t hurt em! :icon_thumby:) On vehicles after 199?, they also plug in to the OBD port.

I digress......If they do not check visually under the hood for smog equipment, you can get away with it. Just find a shop or someone you know that has the equipment to check emission output (not the testing center itself obviously) & adjust the carb. to read within specs & you are good to go!

If they are "commy" minded like out in California for example..I don't think you can get away with it
 
Havent gotten to work on the B2 for a while but gonna get back into it here soon.
Anytime ive been to the centers here in az they hook up some hose to the exhaust tip and it reads the out put. Cant remember if they do anything under the hood.
Man kinda stuck in a hard place. if have to look into these things.
 
I have another question about the choke pull off. It seems like it physically doesn't do anything to the linkages for the choke. The choke itself goes in and out but doesn't effect how much the choke is allowed to open and it definitly doesn't pull the choke open itself. Is it adjustable and able to move back? Or something?
 
The choke pull off vacuum motor should be hooked up to manifold vacuum. There is a screw on the back on the motor that adjusts the end point limit of the pull off. Usually this is set with a vacuum source like a mity vac pump and a drill bit between the choke plate and inside of the carb where the choke plate seals against. IF you cant get any action out of the vacuum motor check to see if the vacuum passage is plugged or the hose is disconnected. Some carbs use a small restricted vacuum source in the carb that slows down the speed the choke pulloff will engage. Try to clean this passage, and as a last resort drill out the passage.
 
I recommend a manual. That red fitting you are holding is for 'pulling codes' to trouble-shoot the computer system. I think there is info on that in the tech library of this site.
Just ask about the smog rules, but ask more than one and double check because once it is off - its off and very hard to replace. Here in California we have a visual inspection and have a dyno test to check emissions at two different speeds. When it runs right, it runs great.
Even when working the visual is a problem. I had a splice in a circuit and a guy said that it was tampered with; it worked but he didn't care. Another guy didn't know what he was looking for. I think he was younger than my Ranger, so he may have never even seen a carburetor.
keep at it - you'll get it right (Factory or DuraSpark)
 

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