parking brake problem

[ForOffRoadDriving]

i have a 1990 for ranger 2wd and all of a sudden my parking brake started having problems with releasing after being depressed. my truck is a manual so i use the brake all the time and im pretty sure it hasnt siezed up because the lines are only 6-8 months old at the most. i replaced all 3 cables at the same time and also installed all new brake components, axle bearings and seals and brake lines. everything has been working good up until about 2 weeks ago. i adjusted the cable like the manual says because the pedal was travelling farther and farther each time i applied it over the period of about a week, so finally i decided to adjust before i went to work and after i did that it was too hard to push at all. i loosened the cable until it was 1/2 between where i put it and where it was. it still was hard to press and release but i figured the shoes just needed to re seat them sleves and maybe it would work better. well when i went to leave work it wouldnt release and i ended up having to loosen the cable all the way up and then pull the lever and wala it released. is there some kind of catch that the lever has that is maybe worn down? any ideas would be good and i know i should probably just pull it out and look at it and then asess it but im not going to get to it for a few days.

 

[Mark_88]

Unless you forgot to grease the shoes when installing them they shouldn't be the restrictive factor in this equation...remove the drum and try to squeeze some brake grease at the contact points so the shoes can move freely if you're not sure...

However, it sounds more like the problem is with the pedal mechanism. These tend to rust up pretty good and may require cleaning and grease if they get too rusty. There is no catch that wears on them though...there is a little gear with teeth and a spring that makes the clicking noise as you engage the brake (unless you pull the lever while depressing the pedal as that moves the gear away from the cable tensioner gear).

They aren't hard to remove and clean up though...just in a difficult spot to reach for most people...removing the driver's seat may be necessary (or recommended) if you are any larger than a normal 12 year old...you will need to release the cable at the rear connector completely in most cases though and it sounds like yours is not too badly rusted if you can adjust it.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thanks mark88 i think thats what ill end up doing tomorrow after im done painting some misc. crap. how many bolts hold that assembly in, 3? i was also thinking about cutting my seat while i have it out and do the 60/40 to bucket conversion that i read on here. then i could put my custom center console back in and hook up my subs again!

 

[Mark_88]

There are three bolts holding the assembly in place...the top one is difficult to get at but not impossible...can't remember the exact size now though but the lower ones are the same size so once you figure that out it's a POC...

Buckets are nice...I've got the low back ones but want to get the high backs before I start driving it...a center console would be nice too...I was actually considering putting the E-brake on the console also...might still do that if I can...the foot pedal on the driver's side is usually just something to catch my pant leg on...

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

well i did the fix last night. i see what you mean the top bolt is a bitch! luckily i had a 10mm ratchet wrench with the shallow sockets that snap into them and i was able to get that bolt out. then it was all down hill from there. on the easiest bolt to get to i decided to be lazy and use my 3/8 snap on impact and get it out quick. well i ended up breaking the nut off from the back side if the sheet metal.... we'll come back to that. i got the last bolt out and was still mad at myself for breaking the last bolt so i decided to loosen my p. brake cable so i could disconnect the cable from the rear cables and then from the pedal assembly. i was laying on my creeper with my vice grips on the end of the threaded rod and my 13mm ratchet wrench on the nut and i was loosening the bolt for a good while, and then it sopped. i looked at the bolt and it wasnt off yet, so i turned harder.....then i looked at the cable and said OH SHIT! my vice grips had come loose from the square shaped end and started to rotate and unwind the cabel inside of its housing DOH! so i got it loose enough to pull the cable out of the bracket and then off the pedal assembly then i took a die grinder to the head of my broken bolt and the nut fell into the darkness behind the sheet metal. i then pulled the pedal out of the truck and examined it workings to find out that it was just wore out. the release tab had a groove worn into it and it just couldnt disengage the detent lever that rides on the pedal gear. a couple of zaps with the MIG welder and i had the mechanism working perfectly. i reassebmled the pedal and cable (im replacing the broken unwound one tonight) and then proceeded to cut my 60/40 down to a 40/40 and reinstall my old center counsole. job well done now im off to replace that cable!

 

[Mark_88]

Excellent!

I was going to mention that the metal behind mine was so rusty that one of the bolts couldn't be used...so I drilled through the support and put a longer bolt on it...that held it till the firewall crumbled and I had to either replace the cab or the whole truck...I did the latter...

When those cables get messed up it's best to just replace them anyways...so you'll have a fully functioning parking brake for a few years...might want to grease the cable before installing it...I put grease on a rag and pull the cable all the way through the sheath and then return it back again...may not need to do the exposed cable but inside the sheath really helps...surprised they don't do that when they're made...well, not really surprised since it increases costs...