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Opinions on different brands and types of dry gas


I’ve never heard of Sta-bil being used as a dry gas product. I use it all the time for my power equipment to prevent varnish and fuel systems problems.
I said "Sounds Like" didn't I? I think I did. Never had to deal with this phenomenon of gas freezing and never heard of "dry gas" until today so I associated it with the closes thing I have heard of. Sorry Not trying to say Sta-bil is for one thing that it's not meant to be used for. I have a habit/reputaion of spreading misinformation around here

Edit: would water in the gas be considered a "fuel system problem", asking for a friend
 
You don't go to Advanced Auto Parts enough then... :icon_rofl: I Don't recommend it but the Non-mechanic's behind the counter do.

I learned a long time ago not to take the advice of most behind the counter guys at auto parts stores.
 
Considering they have the same automotive training as the folks that work the counter at McDonald's, that's wise...
 
I said "Sounds Like" didn't I? I think I did. Never had to deal with this phenomenon of gas freezing and never heard of "dry gas" until today so I associated it with the closes thing I have heard of. Sorry Not trying to say Sta-bil is for one thing that it's not meant to be used for. I have a habit/reputaion of spreading misinformation around here

Edit: would water in the gas be considered a "fuel system problem", asking for a friend

You did, so no foul on your part. My comment was more of a commentary than a critique.
 
Stabilizers are different, but can bond with water in the system

Best method to store gasoline is to minimizes its contact with air, so fill gas tank full, car, or lawnmower, or ??
Fill gas cans full, the less surface area with air contacted the better

If a carbureted engine then shut off gas to carb and start engine, let it run dry and die
Gas in a carb will evaporate and leave a residue clogging jets

Fuel injection doesn't have that issue unless it has been sitting for quite a few years or was leaking before being shut off
Air and evaporation is the enemy
If you can smell gasoline that IS evaporation
 
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I learned a long time ago not to take the advice of most behind the counter guys at auto parts stores.

My son was offered a job at O'Reilly's Auto parts here and asked them if they were going to teach him about auto parts? Of course the the answer was all you need to to do is punch buttons on a computer and he was smart enough to say "well then no thanks" because he knew enough running for parts with me that you need to have some understanding in order to not screw up the customer.

AS is you tell them exactly what you need, minus the part number, and they still hand you the wrong part so...
 
Stabilizers are different, but can bond with water in the system

Best method to store gasoline is to minimizes its contact with air, so fill gas tank full, car, or lawnmower, or ??
Fill gas cans full, the less surface area with air contacted the better

You also pick up less condensation with a full fuel tank too, aircraft are usually stored with full tanks for this reason.
 
I would look for isopropanol based dry gas if you decide to use it, methanol is bad news. I personally haven't used any since they added ethanol to the gas. I worked at a Sunoco station from 72-75 and the delivery driver would always check the tanks for water with litmus paper before dropping the gas, if he found any he wouldn't deliver your fuel. Sunoco at the time had 8 grades of gas created by mixing the 2 grades in the tanks. The "economy" grade was called 190 and we thought you were a cheapskate if you bought it, it had 89 octane. The regular was 200 and the grades went up 10 points at a time to the top grade of 260. Sunoco 260 was 103 octane and it looked like cranberry juice, almost no one bought 260 unless they drove a real performance car because 46.9 a gallon was just too much for gas at the time. Most premium gas was about 40 cents which sounds cheap but minimum wage was $1.60. It wasn't really cheaper, the dollars were smaller.
 

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