One Piece Drive Shaft questions...


-Nathan-

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hey guys, so im in the process of sourcing parts for my drive shaft swap to get rid of the horrible vibration off the line.

I have found a 1999 4x4 ext. cab ranger one piece shaft at teh bone yard, but they say it is 46.5", will this work on my 1994 ext. cab ranger 4x4?

And, can i use the saddles that are on that shaft? or do i have to put the saddles from my shaft onto the new one piece?

also, i plan on changing the u-joints, any good recommendations?

thanks,

Nathan


One Piece Drive Shaft questions...
 
new conversion ujoint for 1 piece driveshaft
One Piece Drive Shaft questions...

I used a conversion 1310-1330 ujoint with the front flange off of the original 2piece shaft. You can see that the flanges are different. The rear bolted right up to the explorer 8.8.
 
A '99 shaft (steel) should bolt right into your '94. Just be sure to make some more room for it's larger diameter by trimming back the skidplate underneath your fuel tank.
 
thanks for teh info guys, but why did crawlin91 say that i need a conversion u-joint, and 4x4junkie says it will bolt right up? so which do i need to do?

the driveshaft in question is a 99 steel shaft. thanks
 
He might've used a '01up aluminum shaft, as these come with a larger flange at the t-case end (you could just swap the t-case output flange to mate up to it too).

A steel shaft however should already have a large flange on the rear, small flange on the front. It should bolt right in (I've done this conversion on a '93 Supercab using a '99 steel shaft).
 
Like Junkie said, it is an aluminum driveshaft, the guy who sold me my lift brackets threw it in for free. it has held up so far but I would like to get a steel shaft and use this one as a trail spare. Its interesting to know that the steel ones bolt right in.

how else do they differ, Is the steel shaft identical in size to the aluminum? Id like to get one at the scrap yard, just want to know what to look for.
 
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Hey thanks so much for the info 4x4junkie, i appreciate the help. Any good recommendations for the u-joints?
 
The steel shaft (IIRC) has about a half-inch smaller dia tube than the aluminum one, otherwise it's the same length (it would have to be to still fit), but has the larger front flange I previously mentioned.

As for u-joints, driveshaft joints are not under tremendous amounts of stress like the front axleshaft u-joints typically are, I would only say to avoid the cheapest ones (and any that are imported). Get greasable ones if you play in the mud at all.
 
I just got done with my drive shaft swap, let me tell you, it was a great improvement for my 93 Ranger. I just did a 2 inch lift and I got a vibration in my old shaft. Switched shafts, cured problem.
 
Since you call it a "saddle" I'll call it a saddle.

The U-joints on the one piece shafts are larger
so your original saddles won't work.

And though many use a jump size "Conversion U-joint that is
financially no better than simply using the CORRECT saddle to begin with.

And it's also a reliability & availability issue.

EVERY auto parts has the large standard sized (for most F-150's as well as 1998-up rangers) in stock at all times, most stores I know of keep a minimum of ten on the shelf.

The Jump size joint? you'd better laminate the box flap and keep it in
the glovebox so you can use the number to "crossover" and get another
one... OR keep a spare U-joint...

But then you need to keep TWO spare U-joints for your rear driveshaft
because they are NOT the same at both ends of the shaft..... oops!

I DO carry a spare joint, ONE spare, because it fits either end of the shaft.

AD
 
Hey guys, so i picked up a one-piece shaft from a (steel) 99 ranger ext. cab. Going to change out the u joints, and hopefully get it in soon. Any need for thread locker on teh flange bolts?
 
You could throw some blue locktight on it if you want to. I never have used any thread locker on them, just torque them properly.
 

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