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Ok, it's dead and I'm not sure why....


if it's grinding you either need a new starter, flywheel ring gear or both.

Looked into that a few days ago, and found out it was fine, besides me trying to start it that way a few too many times, but its fine. The cylinoid is not working at full capacity. Its old, all the engine components are original (minus the filters and the plugs).
 
Drove it today and had fewer problems, still refused to start a few times. One thing has occurred to me: I've had vaguely similar problems before, is there anything in the steering column that can make the truck refuse to start? 1) I had to replace the console switch, and as I've mentioned.... I'm not an expert. The plug was totally fried, so I had to manually wire it in. (Wire strippers and spade bits.) This seems to be working fine overall.... it's ugly but functional. 2) I did have a similar problem a while back that I couldn't find a source for, my mechanic fixed it by wrapping electrical tape around a white boxy switch in the steering column. None of us knows what this switch is. It's white, about an inch and a half.... maybe two inches long, half an inch wide, sits roughly under the key. Messing with this doesn't seem to make the truck start.... but if I knew what this thing was it might help in troubleshooting.
 
Ok, update. :)

Drove it around, it seemed fine and then I had problems off and on all last week. The major difference between fine and not fine?

Temperature. Starts fine at night, and when it's gloomy and rainy out. In both cases it's cold out. I started having trouble again when it got sunny and warmer.

Here's what I'm thinking:

I looked around and that white boxy switch that's taped tight in place is the ignition switch I think.... here's what I'm wondering. If there was something wrong with it that was keeping it from seating properly, we fixed it with electrician's tape......

....warm weather, tape relaxes.... ignition switch wobbles loose again.

Does this sound reasonable? Or am I just grasping at straws here?
 
Ok, update. :)

Drove it around, it seemed fine and then I had problems off and on all last week. The major difference between fine and not fine?

Temperature. Starts fine at night, and when it's gloomy and rainy out. In both cases it's cold out. I started having trouble again when it got sunny and warmer.

Here's what I'm thinking:

I looked around and that white boxy switch that's taped tight in place is the ignition switch I think.... here's what I'm wondering. If there was something wrong with it that was keeping it from seating properly, we fixed it with electrician's tape......

....warm weather, tape relaxes.... ignition switch wobbles loose again.

Does this sound reasonable? Or am I just grasping at straws here?

Fix the ignition switch proaperly
 
Your problem is that a fix of this nature requires duct tape and baling wire. :D

If you can't fix it proper right now at least use a zip tie to hold the switch in place more securely. My BII has an ignition switch zip tie that is actually working pretty well at the moment.
 
First: The clutch slave cylinder, master brake cylinder or power steering pump will not keep your starter from turning over the engine.

Second: If you have manual trans, and what looks like AT trans fluid in your engine compartment it probably came from your power steering pump.

Starter not turning over: Start by inspecting and cleaning the battery cables, battery terminals, postitive cable goes to the starter relay and then to the starter, negitive cables goes to the block or frame and there is a ground strap that connects from the block to the frame. Make sure all of these connects are clean and tight. Check clutch safety switch to ensure it is mounted properly and functioning correctly (you can use a DVM to test the switch). If the starter is still not turning pull the starter and have it tested. Any auto parts house should be able to do this for you.

All of these test assume your battery is good. otherwise replace your battery.

Power steering Leak: Someone listed above that the breather hole could have plugged and pressure cause the cap to break. I would follow their recommendation as to the fix.
 

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