Oil pan gasket

[TEACHER]

1994 4.0 I have put my oil pan gasket on 2 times each time new gasket and it leaks. This time I used a fel pro gasket and mounted it to the block first. I put the rubber ears that are on the gasket that go to the back of the block in the slots were the #4 main cap makes the hump at the back of the engine. Should I be putting it on the pan first. I try not to use alot of silicone but I do on the corners of the front and rear of the block. Also I am totally redoing this truck. I have the core support out for paint and ease of pulling out the engine. This is 4x4 so should I remove the engine or transmission. I do not want to take the heads or headers off this engine again. Would it be best to remove the transfer case ,then tranny if that is the route that is suggested. Thanks in advance I know this is alot.

 

[Dirtman]

I use high tack to seat the gasket to the pan first, let it dry, dab silicone on the corners then install the pan. Don't fully torque the bolts until the silicone tacks up for about an hour.

But it's not uncommon for pans to become warped. If you're going to do it again clean the pan and set it on a flat surface like a piece of glass. Check that it's not fubar.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Pan bolts can also be over-tightened, causing leaks. This is why manufacturers started producing oil pan gaskets that have metal cores and metal inserts where the bolts go through it. To prevent over-tightening.

 

[TEACHER]

Thanks Bird and Dirtman any thoughts on pulling the pan.Do I need to pull the motor or tranny or just the motor mount bolts out and Jack up the motor? Will the pan clear that way.

 

[Dirtman]

I can't say I've ever herd anyone needing to pull the motor completely but I've never personally done one on your model year so not 100% sure how the sump and crossmember is. One of the local nerds around here will fill you in on that.