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oil for manual trannys


When I replaced my clutch, I put in 80-90w. Only when driving long distances at speeds excess of 65 mph do I get the gear oil smell. The rubber boot does a good job when properly fastened, and I have placed my hand on the top of the trans after a long ride. Its *warm* but not to the point of unbearability.

Ultimately, I feel as though the gear oil adds a bit of umph. Before replacing the clutch, I had less power with whatever fluid was in it then, which was a darker red, (probably ATF) with black tint from metal goop. After replacing the clutch with gear oil, I can start off like a bat out of hell in a 4 banger from first gear, and can still burn rubber doing so in second gear.

I like my gear oil just fine, thank you.
 
When I replaced my clutch, I put in 80-90w. Only when driving long distances at speeds excess of 65 mph do I get the gear oil smell. The rubber boot does a good job when properly fastened, and I have placed my hand on the top of the trans after a long ride. Its *warm* but not to the point of unbearability.

Ultimately, I feel as though the gear oil adds a bit of umph. Before replacing the clutch, I had less power with whatever fluid was in it then, which was a darker red, (probably ATF) with black tint from metal goop. After replacing the clutch with gear oil, I can start off like a bat out of hell in a 4 banger from first gear, and can still burn rubber doing so in second gear.

I like my gear oil just fine, thank you.
Why would you run something contrary to what it was designed to run? There was no power difference between the 2 fluids, sorry.
Hell, why not run gear oil in your engine? I'm sure the motor oil specification is wrong :rolleyes:
 
When I replaced my clutch, I put in 80-90w. Only when driving long distances at speeds excess of 65 mph do I get the gear oil smell. The rubber boot does a good job when properly fastened, and I have placed my hand on the top of the trans after a long ride. Its *warm* but not to the point of unbearability.

Ultimately, I feel as though the gear oil adds a bit of umph. Before replacing the clutch, I had less power with whatever fluid was in it then, which was a darker red, (probably ATF) with black tint from metal goop. After replacing the clutch with gear oil, I can start off like a bat out of hell in a 4 banger from first gear, and can still burn rubber doing so in second gear.

I like my gear oil just fine, thank you.


Gear oil in an m50d????? AND it adds power????:icon_confused:

Maybe all the extra "get up and go" came from a K&N.......
 
Ill probably replace it when I decide to drop the trans and replace the seals, but I dont see that happening until absolutely needed.
 
You're going to need to replace more than seals at that point.......
 
I smelled gear oil when the screws came out of my shifter bushing cup. But that was because it was actually leaking out...

Think about it...are you supposed to smell oil inside your motor? What about antifreeze? Didn't think so...so why not just use the specified lubricant because the people who know much more about these things than you or I do recommended it?
 
i use pennzoil sycromesh fluid in my M5OD. ive tried every A.T.F. i could find, and even tried motorcycle oil once. i would never use gear oil though, youre just asking for your syncro's to be trashed. gear oil is not ment for these type transmissions. it will cause irreversable damage.
 
I have a 93 5speed with a 4.0. The trans is sticking just a little bit here and there. I think it may have a slow leak. I plan on replacing the clutch and slave when my government money comes back, but until then, what fluid should I think about topping it off with? Sorry if this is a real basic question, but the only other manual trans I have experience with is my VW and it is the good old cable clutch. HAHA!
 
mercon a.t.f. why not just change it completely? get all the old out and fresh oil in.
 
mercon a.t.f. why not just change it completely? get all the old out and fresh oil in.
He was talking about the clutch hydraulics, not the tranny. The clutch uses DOT3 brake fluid.
 
Cool. Thanks guys. So brake fluid for the clutch? Interesting. Learn something new everyday. And yes, I meant the clutch. What can I say, it is Friday and the thoughts in my head aren't even clear let alone trying to get what my head is thinking to somebody else! HAHA! Another one, where do I go to add fluid to the clutch? I could probably figure it out when I get under the truck, but if I have a general idea first, it could be helpful.
 
hand pump or pull the boot and the inner shifter and fill that way. but the hand pump is the best way so you can still be under the truck and see is run out the drain plug.
 
Today when I was tinking with the shifter cap plate and the pins underneath, I managed to get fifth gear back. I was in a hurry, and didnt put the boot back on, and drove off to my destination. After hitting 70mph on the freeway for a good 10 minutes, something hit my face. I figured it was a bug. Then a few seconds later, another, then a steady stream of droplets. Almost simultaneously, it began to get noticably hot. I look down, and there are droplets of gear oil flying all over the place, making a HUGE mess on the interior, me, and my glasses at 70mph going down the freeway. I got extremely upset. I threw the boot and cup holder combo back over the transmission before removing the shifting knob, and it was one oily mess. When I got to an off ramp and was sitting at a stop sign, I couldnt get it out of fifth. I took some napkins and began wiping down my hands and the immediate items that needed it, and got it out of fifth without applying brute force.

When replacing it by using the entire shifter repair kit, I will be draining the fluid and replacing with ATF.
 
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I said to hell with it, and decided to do it today.

I bought a gallon value jug of Valvoline Long Lasting Mercon ATF for transmissions with over 75k miles. It was $17.99 before tax, so its really not expensive. If I went by the quart, it was $5.49 before tax for the same fluid. (All prices USD)

When using the 15/16" socket on the fill line to see how dry the trans was, I pulled off the bolt and relatively warm gear oil went all over. It caught me by surprise, and I pulled the pan that I thought had to wait for the drain cap and caught most of it. I was grateful that I decided to wait a while before messing with it, or I would have a hand with 1st or 2nd degree burns. That would also explain a power loss in fifth gear! For some reason, the third T30 screw holding down the shifting assembly is missing. Thankfully Ill be getting a whole new set of them when that shifer repair kit comes in.

I had dropped both bolts into the pan, and had to go sifting for them. There were no chunks of metal from gear teeth evident, though the magnet on the drain plug had some shavings on there. The color was a dark brown with some tan creaminess to it being swirled around, similar to coffee but not quite as dark.

After letting it drain for a good 20 minutes to let it completely drain, I tightened them both up and added 3 quarts of ATF fluid. I do realize that I should have filled it til it started spilling over on the fill bolt, but I thought ahead and figured that there will be some leakage from the top til the time I get the repair kit and get the bushings and seals together. I will just drain it and get a couple more quarts of ATF to make sure the vast majority of gear oil is gone when I install the kit.
 
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