O2 Sensors question kind of

[rumblecloud]

Are the upstream O2s the same and are the downstream O2s the same?
But the upstream and downstream are different?
And is Bosch the way to go?

I'm getting a "System too lean Bank 2" and a "replace PCV" suggestion

 

[sgtsandman]

Bosch is the way to go on the sensors.

I can't speak on the Bronco but on my 2011, the up stream sensors are the same on both sides and the down stream sensors are both the same, but the up stream and down stream sensors are different. I suspect that the Bronco would be the same.

 

[SenorNoob]

AFAIK, with few exceptions all heated 02 sensors are physically the same. They just have different connectors.

 

[rumblecloud]

AFAIK, with few exceptions all heated 02 sensors are physically the same. They just have different connectors.

That's what I figured. I'm thinking the only diff would be the way they connect to the different surfaces. Rock auto has them and are listed pretty clearly,

Another issue I just figured out today is that my 02 has Cali emissions, which means the PCV valve I bought from AZ ain't gonna work. I need this one:

CA pcv

It also means RnR is twice as difficult because of the limited working space.
Found this vid on YT ...very helpful in confirming what I thought I would have to do

PVC Removal Cali Emissions

 

[rumblecloud]

Also figured out the CEL ain't doin' what it's s'posed to do ....aaarrrrgh

 

[Hoosierman]

FWIW, many experienced mechanics have told me before, and I see no reason to doubt this, to NEVER go cheap on sensors if you can avoid it. The way I understand it, it's usually OEM>Bosche/NTK>Standard>whatever.

OEM can't always be had. Between Bosche and NTK, I think it depends on the application. I know on one my older Jeeps, the Bosche O2 sensors don't always match up with the connector, and the NTK option generally fills in the gap. That's been my experience.

 

[rumblecloud]

The Bosch from Rock aren't that expensive, so that is what I will go with assuming I can get them off

 

[Hoosierman]

I had a problem like that with my '89 Comanche. Getting those sensors off was not happening without breaking something.

Actually, I still have that problem!

 

[sgtsandman]

The Bosch from Rock aren't that expensive, so that is what I will go with assuming I can get them off

Pick up a thread chaser for the O2 sensor bung. Sometimes they get cloged up with rust and the new sensor won't thread in correctly. I think RockAuto has them. I can't remember if I got mine from there or amazon.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

A torch and a thread chaser. Heat the bung cherry and wrench away, then run the thread chaser through to clean things up. Ideally use copper anti-seize, the aluminum stuff doesn’t seem to do a whole lot.

 

[Hoosierman]

A torch and a thread chaser. Heat the bung cherry and wrench away, then run the thread chaser through to clean things up. Ideally use copper anti-seize, the aluminum stuff doesn’t seem to do a whole lot.

I second the heat and the copper. Aluminum anti-seize usually works better for me on smaller or less consequential applications.

 

[SenorNoob]

We use copper on the head bolts for the injection machines at work. 10s of thousands PSI of stress while at up to 700F and we usually don't have trouble taking them apart every year. We do have one machine stuck now but it was assembled at the factory. Chinese machine so who know what if anything they used.

 

[rumblecloud]

Copper it is...

 

[rumblecloud]

Also posted this under the CEL not working:

Ran OBD2 and got the following:
For P1311 Google says "Lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch, typically indicates a problem with the oxygen sensor on the bank 1, sensor 1 side, which is the one closer to the engine.

For P1151 Google says "Lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch Indicates Lean Bank 2" indicates that the upstream heated oxygen sensor on Bank 2 is not switching as it should.

Should I replace all four or just the two not working properly? I'm not looking forward to this.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@rumblecloud
1 of the things I've learned on here,
is when going down the changing part money pit,
only change one thing at a time.

And then test to see if that fixed the problem.

That being said I would not change all 4 at one time.
I would change the 2 that you know for sure are bad.
Reset computer, go for a drive, then test again and see what you get.

Now I'm just a novice here in comparison to the others,
so you can take what I say and run with it or you can leave it laying,
it's up to you.