O-ring for Quick Disconnect on Clutch Line

[bernasty]

Does anyone know where I can find the o-ring that goes around the quick disconnect fitment for the main clutch line? Or does anyone know the exact size I need?

I have searched all over the place and can't find it. I tried eye-balling the size by taking the o-ring to Advance and the o-ring I got was too fat and I couldn't fit the line back in.

I am having some sort of leak, and I believe it is due to that o-ring. I have already replaced the master cylinder, but that didn't help. And when I look under the truck the only fluid is coming out around that fitment. When I pull out the plug on the transmission, it is mostly dry on the inside, but it is leaking fluid so bad that it doesn't ever disengage.

Thanks for the help!

 

[gw33gp]

Doesn't the Ford dealer have them?

 

[bernasty]

not around here apparently. they tried to sell me a slave cylinder though...

 

[Doom's Day Custom]

check like a ace hardware or homedepot or lowes because they sell o-rings like that might fit!!!!

 

[bernasty]

one of my friends recommended a ford o-ring kit. i found one here:

http://www.tooltopia.com/fjc-4290.a...&utm_term=FJC4290&utm_campaign=googlebase_18u

just figured i'd post it in case anyone else has the same problem.

also, he recommended using the green HNBR o-rings for parts that might come in contact with brake fluid.

 

[AgPete139]

Thread revival. I'm adding information to this issue.



My Repair Process:


O-RING: (O'Reilly's P/N #110 (correct) ---- used original O-ring ---- O'Reilly's P/N #111 (INCORRECT)

NOTE: I used a drop of oil to help get the o-ring and clutch line back in.

I've read that the master cylinder piston o-rings are 0.62" diameter (up to at least 2000), and 0.75" diameter o-ring for the newer models (2005+).


I ended up using a #110 o-ring from O'Reilly's which did the trick. This is for future reference for anyone having troubles with their clutch lines, bubbles, air, soft pedal, or bleed ing.


http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1223839&postcount=33

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1223844&postcount=34







HNBR (green) O-Rings & Using Engine Vacuum to Pull Air Out:

I have no experience with the HNBR material in car systems. However, HNBR is known to be slightly better in corrosive environments, and is good to from low temperatures of -50*F up to 350*F.


I was playing around with my clutch system yesterday (it's a solid working system), and I tried to do a vacuum experiment on it, but I ended up sucking air INTO the system, not just pulling the current bubbles out.


By running an engine vacuum into the clutch system, the 15+ lbs of constant pressure started sucking too hard (that's not what he said, lol).


Bleeding using engine vacuum:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1289309#post1289309

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109908


I am trying to find another effective way to bleed this thing.


Anyways, I hope this helps any future readers.

 

[sgkramar]

I'm pretty sure it's a 2 mm, 12mm ID, 16 mm OD o-ring. I took a micrometer and measured mine and the fitting and that seems to be the right size.

I use a small hand-operated vacuum pump to bleed the system -- works quite well as long as the air is in the slave cylinder and not the master.

 

[rra022001]

Hello everyone - New to the Forum here. While I would normally introduce myself via the usual newbies/welcome thread, I figured I would revive this thread.
Being that EPDM based O-Rings are better suited for both glycol and silicone-based brake fluids, would it not make better sense to use EPDM o-rings?

 

[superj]

welcome!! i am not sure, i don't remember which materials work better in what fluids but if that is what you found, for sure