No Start

[dieselarruda]

i need help fixing my 1988 ford ranger xlt 2.9L 6v
it just cranks but wont run i have to coils one makes it misfire and the other on make it just crank. cant any one help. starter is good, fuel pump is good alternator is bad. it has a new ignition control module in it and i have two coils and i hope their not both bad and i changed all the spark plugs in it too and bought a new coil, One time I put alot of starting fluid in the carb and I tried to start it and I seen a flame came out of the carb do you know what that means? have not got it running yet, bought a alternator but has not came in yet. i think the connection is ok, the plugs are not wet but smell like fuel,i have a almost half tank of fuel, i put mystery oil in it and fuel refresher, do i need to put more gas i think the gas has been sitting for 2 years.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGjqmDwoS48

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

Drain the tank.....

 

[dieselarruda]

how should i drain the tank??

 

[PGHFord]

I believe its a fusible link....

Doesnt look like a fusible link, if your talking those rubber incased blocks on the wire that you see here and there on the harness, with like a hole in the them for a test probe to go into, this thing is like a black plug that disconnects, part of it was broken off on the side where the cable from neg post on battery feeds into it, was looking at the chiltons manual in the wiring diagrams, doesnt show anything in that wire, but was thinking maybe it might be a radio noise capacitor, if not a diode. From what I see metallic of it, it looks like a round metal fat capacitor inside it. Ill take a pic of it when I get outside to run some diagnostics and trace some wires, figure since I called off work, might as well clean the IAC to, hoping the rain stops for a while here.

 

[PGHFord]

i need help fixing my 1988 ford ranger xlt 2.9L 6v
it just cranks but wont run i have to coils one makes it misfire and the other on make it just crank. cant any one help. starter is good, fuel pump is good alternator is bad. it has a new ignition control module in it and i have two coils and i hope their not both bad and i changed all the spark plugs in it too and bought a new coil, One time I put alot of starting fluid in the carb and I tried to start it and I seen a flame came out of the carb do you know what that means? have not got it running yet, bought a alternator but has not came in yet. i think the connection is ok, the plugs are not wet but smell like fuel,i have a almost half tank of fuel, i put mystery oil in it and fuel refresher, do i need to put more gas i think the gas has been sitting for 2 years.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGjqmDwoS48

There are some things to consider here, some things im keeping in mind, there is a thing called a thick film ignition module sometimes referred to as a TFI that is located on the side of the distributor that controls spark when they go they can create a no start condition, also inside the distributor is a hall effect pickup they call it that feeds to the TFI that controls spark, sometimes they crack and go bad. If that hall effect pickup goes bad you have to remove the distributor to remove it, but you have to have a speciall tool to remove the gear off the bottom of the distributor to remove the shaft out of it to get to the pickup to replace it.

 

[PGHFord]

There are some things to consider here, some things im keeping in mind, there is a thing called a thick film resistor sometimes referred to as a TFI that is located on the side of the distributor that controls spark when they go they can create a no start condition, also inside the distributor is a hall effect pickup they call it that feeds to the TFI that controls spark, sometimes they crack and go bad. If that hall effect pickup goes bad you have to remove the distributor to remove it, but you have to have a speciall tool to remove the gear off the bottom of the distributor to remove the shaft out of it to get to the pickup to replace it.

Im quoting my own about that TFI in later models ford put it along the firewall in a fined aluminum block also, but the wires go to the distributor into the hall effect pickup.

 

[PGHFord]

Just hooked up tester to retrieve codes 21,24, -10- 18,22,33 code 21 says ECT out of range, code 24 says Intake air charge temp out of range, code 10 is the spacer group code, code 18 says loss of tach input, code 22 says MAP sensor out of range(maybe cause I unplugged it and tried to start it), code 33 EGR valve not opening, hmmm. Thats all the codes. Maybe the ECT did fail? anyone ever have one fail?

 

[PGHFord]

went out with ohm meter and check volts, pos terminal battery/neg terminal 12.41, pos to block 12.41, pos to rad support 12.41, pos to frame 12.41, pos to aluminum intake manifold 12.41, pos to exhaust manifold 12.41, voltage is coursing through the truck, checked out wire from neg post to core support fine and tight, 12.41 going through it all the way to support.

 

[PGHFord]

I think I found my problem, just like my 87 lynx I had years ago that died the same way on the highway, being there was a code 18 IDM/Spout ground issue I took off the TFI/ICM and used my ohm meter to check it, some ports showed no ohmage, so I called Autozone they had a module tester, was fun riding the bus to get there and back, but they hooked up my ICM to it and sure enough it tested bad, I had them hook up the new ICM and it tested good. Being its raining again here cant get outside to install it, but will keep you informed. Think I found my problem, could be reason I was having idling problems too, but will clean IAC also just for routine maintenance.

 

[PGHFord]

TFI was the problem, that fixed the no start condition. Runs now.