No 4x4

[86MUDRCJ]

I noticed that the lock nut on the hub keeps coming off or loose and also bearings don't last very long. Is that because of it coming back.? What do I need to do to fix this? Thanks guys

 

[kryptonitecb]

If you run over sized tires this happens alot. Keep tightening the spindle nut and checking bearings. I check every 2 weeks.

Sent from road while ignoring traffic

 

[86MUDRCJ]

The thing is that I have stock tires.

 

[wizkid00104]

Does your spindle have 2 nuts and a ring in the middle with holes around the border?

Looks like this:

 

[86MUDRCJ]

It looks like that but there isn't holes in it its just solid round piece.

 

[wizkid00104]

I am not sure what an 86 would have had from the factory as far as the nuts and washers are concerned.

I know on my 94 that I had the inner nut to tight on the bearing and that destroy my drivers side front bearing prematurely.

Since then, i learned that the inner nut gets snugged up to the bearing so there is no play, but don't crank the hell out of it. The inner nut had a stub that stuck out and fit in one of the holes on that washer and the washer prevented the inner nut from moving with the groove in the spindle. Then the outer nut could be tightened down good on the washer and inner nut. This keeps light pressure on the bearing, but ensures that the nuts will not come loose.

Can someone comment if the earlier Ranger's washer had holes in it like the one pictured above?

86MUDRCJ, does your Ranger have manual or auto hubs on it? Your's does have two nuts and a washer, correct?

 

[86MUDRCJ]

It has manual hubs and I believe it does. It also has springs in front of the inner nut.

 

[wizkid00104]

It has manual hubs and I believe it does. It also has springs in front of the inner nut.

Can you post a picture of it?

 

[Shran]

Wow, the old wheel bearing tech talk again...

My procedure for wheel bearings:

1. Assemble bearings inside hub, put hub on spindle.
2. Torque inner nut to 30ft/lbs, or until it's "snug"
3. Back inner nut off 1/4 turn, tighten slightly (spec is 25 INCH/lbs, IIRC)
4. Check for side to side play, if there's ANY, tighten slightly.
5. Check to see that the hub turns freely.
6. If all is good, install washer, and adjust inner nut TIGHTER so it lines up with the washer. NEVER LOOSEN! This is what causes bearing play!
7. Install outer nut and get it as tight as you can.

This is the procedure I have done for years. Never had a premature bearing failure, it never loosens up and never gets hot. If you guys are having nuts loosen up or premature bearing failure, it means you had a bad bearing to begin with or installed it wrong.

 

[Brandon Nootenboom]

Wow, the old wheel bearing tech talk again...

My procedure for wheel bearings:

1. Assemble bearings inside hub, put hub on spindle.
2. Torque inner nut to 30ft/lbs, or until it's "snug"
3. Back inner nut off 1/4 turn, tighten slightly (spec is 25 INCH/lbs, IIRC)
4. Check for side to side play, if there's ANY, tighten slightly.
5. Check to see that the hub turns freely.
6. If all is good, install washer, and adjust inner nut TIGHTER so it lines up with the washer. NEVER LOOSEN! This is what causes bearing play!
7. Install outer nut and get it as tight as you can.

This is the procedure I have done for years. Never had a premature bearing failure, it never loosens up and never gets hot. If you guys are having nuts loosen up or premature bearing failure, it means you had a bad bearing to begin with or installed it wrong.

I was just thinking that same exact technique. Did wheel bearings on a 91 Explorer 4x4 and my Ranger, haven't had any problems. Also make sure when you put the races and new seal in the rear that they really are pressed all the way in, I know a Kenworth is ain't a Ranger but I had one come into the shop I work at and the last person to do the rear wheel bearings didn't press the seal all the way in, resulting in it not only burning up the bearings from being sloppy but also ruining the spindle.