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Newbie with a question (2.8l v6)


What does the 'VRESER' stand for on the vacuum hose routing?

What about the 'ACV' that is connected to engine and catalyst with dotted lines?
 
Also, what does the 'SA-FV' mean? Is there a link or a write-up about what all of the components are/ look like in the rangers for the vacuum system? That way a common person can identify and re-route hoses if need be? Lol
 
I would highly reccomend the duraspark conversion. I did it to my truck and was very happy with the results.

Sent from, wait how did this get here?
 
I want to do the duraspark conversion on it. Problem is I can't seem to find a donor vehicle for the wiring harness and the carb. I can't afford to spend $400-700 bux on a new carb. Perhaps someone on here may have harness and carb for sale?? Or at least point me in the right direction to get her running and running good.

Btw, I'm trying to wire up an aftermarket radio in this thing and the guy before just tied the 12v ignition wire with the power, but I don't want to do that for reasons of it running the battery dry. Which wire am I looking for that is the key ignition 12v wire
 
The only harness you need is for the distributor, you can make it by hard wiring it with three wires, buying the connectors or I found mine in a 1984 ranger with the 4 cyl engine it makes it plug and play. The module plugs right into the two wire connector coming out of the firewall drivers side mounted the module to the wheel well and plugged in the distributor. You need to remove the computer harness strip the harness back to the alternator from the grey 8 wire connector by the ignition coil. Then remove the computer on the bulkhead in front of the passenger door and unbolt the plate that holds the harness going through the firewall and pull all the wiring off that connects to the computer harness. You only need to cut a couple wires to remove the computer harness the computer power wire and the wire for the neg side of the coil. You will see the wires not to cut water temp sender oil pressure sender and alternator wires everything else goes away. Pull all the vacuum lines out and plug all the nipples not being used. You can run with the stock carb and just use manifold vacuum for the ignition advance for now. Mine ran real well with the stock carb but was terrible on fuel mileage. The one thing I didnt try was putting in smaller jets in the carb. It comes with #50 jets and I`m running #43 jets now with fairly good mileage 16-18 mixed driving. I keep hopeing someone will try putting the smaller jets on the stock carb and see how it does on mileage. I can almost guarantee doing the conversion will bring that engine to life you will want to check change the gear oil/fluid in the tranny and rear end. You will be amazed at the room you will gain by eliminating the computer crap. I just used some of the old wire shielding to protect the guage and alternator wires and for the choke just use the whit/black wire from the alternator to power the electric choke thermostat.
 
Do you have a picture of this wiring you can post to help out the non-electrical tech people here LOL.
 
VRESER is the coffee can vacuum reservor
ACV is the thermactor it pushes air into the cat or the exhaust pipes the AIR BPV is the air bypass valve it keeps the pipes from popping, when you let off of the throttle it shuts the air off going to the thermactor.
 
Thank You for all of the help and tips kim. Now could you; or maybe someone within the forums; recommend to me which carb to use as far as a Holley 2300? There are a few different 2300's at summitracing.com and I don't know which is right for our little 2.8 l
 
I recommend the autolite/motorcraft 2100/2150 with a 1.08 or smaller venturi. Maybe a old holly 2 barrel from a 260 or 289 would work OK not alot of info out there on the holly for the 2.8L. Ideally if you can find a late 70s pinto, capri or mustang II with the 2.8 and it will already be set up, you just need the carb spacer felpro #60529 to plug all the vacuum leaks on the base of the carb.
 

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