New trailer!

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Well I “sprung” for a gate lift assist. lol Found one on ebay for $125 (vs $250 @ tsc) so I ordered it and just got it on today. Works well. Theres 2 coil springs in each yellow square tube, one inside of the other. Next will be either sideboards on the inside of the rails or tie downs.
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Post a pic of it open please. I can't envision how it works.

 

[racsan]

Each side has 2 springs inside of it, one small spring inside a larger spring. its pinned at the front and the other end has a cable attached. The cable attaches to the gate and as it is lowered it pulls out on the springs. It wont pull it all the way up but getting off the ground to where you have more leverage on it helps. Too much tension and the gate wouldn’t stay down. It will hold it on its own at the point of being level with the trailer deck.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

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Each side has 2 springs inside of it, one small spring inside a larger spring. its pinned at the front and the other end has a cable attached. The cable attaches to the gate and as it is lowered it pulls out on the springs. It wont pull it all the way up but getting off the ground to where you have more leverage on it helps. Too much tension and the gate wouldn’t stay down. It will hold it on its own at the point of being level with the trailer deck.

So to adjust tension you screw the small spring in or out of the big one?

 

[racsan]

No, changing tension is done by moving the connection point on the gate. On setup you use “S” hooks to temporarily attach cables to the gate, when you’ve achieved the correct tension you drill 1/2” holes in the gate sides for the 1/2” bolts that the cables attach to.

 

[sgtsandman]

For the side boards, I would recommend actual boards over plywood. Plywood will rot from the inside out, even if you treat it with deck sealer. Unless it's a cost thing and you would rather just swap the wood as it gets too damaged. I used plywood at first, thus why I know about the wood rotting from the inside even when deck sealed.

 

[Josh B]

Use ground contact grade wood and plywood

 

[racsan]

My plans are for real boards, cant quite haul anything loose like gravel or mulch the way it is. I may use the ranger trailer for gravel, if it gets overloaded Id rather it get damaged than my new trailer, sure its rated for 3000# but with a 6 x 14 deck im sure I would pass that mark very fast. I would consider taking the cap off & just use the ranger but Ive recently found some frame damage that needs attention before I have much of a load in the back. My next big purchase needs to be a better (and sadly, newer) truck. Ive been finding bullnose F150’s fairly reasonable on marketplace lately. One ad cracked me up, A ‘88 supercab F150 for $3,000. supposedly 75K. says o/d is out. from the dash & straight shift lever I can tell its a C6. theres no 4rth in that slushbox! I might see if my old ‘93 15” rims with the 255/70’s will fit on this new trailer. Might be a bit tight in the fender wells, gotta try !

 

[racsan]

Finally painted the wheel centers today, Hate a all-black wheel.

 

[racsan]

Added loop tie-downs and a tounge box yesterday, the tie downs are a full forged loop with a 2200# rating each, 1/2-13 threads. just did 4 but might get 2 more for the very middle. The box for the front was something Ive had for years, was the bed box for my first ranger. Now I can keep straps on the trailer itself instead of just tossing them in a bucket in the back of whatever Im towing with on a given day.

 

[sgtsandman]

Good mod! If I remember correctly, the cast in number is the working load rating. So, that should give you about 6,000# of break force strength at each corner assuming the frame doesn't fail before then.

 

[Roert42]

Good mod! If I remember correctly, the cast in number is the working load rating. So, that should give you about 6,000# of break force strength at each corner assuming the frame doesn't fail before then.

For eye bolts and nuts that WLL is for a straight pull away from the anchor point, so straight up. They are not rated to pull sideways.

For this application it would be better to bolt a D ring to the deck.

 

[sgtsandman]

For eye bolts and nuts that WLL is for a straight pull away from the anchor point, so straight up. They are not rated to pull sideways.

For this application it would be better to bolt a D ring to the deck.

True. Way better than those bent rings where the one end isn't even welded to the shank.

I did recessed rings that bolt to the frame in three spots and the one out in the open wood got the largest washer I could find (about 3" in diameter), then stepped down to a smaller washer, and then a third even smaller washer. I also installed eight rings, each with a WLL of something like 3770#. The frame will fail before the rings let go.

 

[racsan]

The trailer itself has a 3500# rating, the most I would have on it would be 1000# or less. If it was a heavier trailer for tractors or cars Id consider the D-ring stlye but Im sure I will be ok with what my useage is.

 

[Roert42]

I’ve seen those bent hooks with the screw end hood up to some impressive abuse. I’m sure this will be more then fine.