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New Intercooler Tubing


Just remove the hinges and install 4 hood pins...

Ha! And how do I get my hood open then?

Of course, I could pick up some neato custom carbon-fiber front end and have the whole stinking thing tilt out of the way in order to access the engine bay, but that hardly seems worthwhile on a truck that isn't even worth $1 000 anymore . . .

It's a pity. I've got more money into the blower than the entire machine is worth!
 
How do you think I feel about the front axle... I must have 2500 in that all said and done to where it's at now. I expect to have about that into an engine when I build one in the spring, but it's gonna be a high compression 2.3L (the stock 9.4:1) with forged pistons so I can run an M90 with the original small pulley on it. I think 12-14 PSI will be fun if I ever get to that point. All of this pushing hopefully through a type DaveR head if he has the time to build me one and out a nice long tube header. Ahh it's nice to dream.
 
How do you think I feel about the front axle... I must have 2500 in that all said and done to where it's at now. I expect to have about that into an engine when I build one in the spring, but it's gonna be a high compression 2.3L (the stock 9.4:1) with forged pistons so I can run an M90 with the original small pulley on it.

These little trucks of ours are really labors of love, aren't they?


I think 12-14 PSI will be fun if I ever get to that point. All of this pushing hopefully through a type DaveR head if he has the time to build me one and out a nice long tube header. Ahh it's nice to dream.

Ah, indeed! I've got an older turbo head in my garage, but I've become disenchanted with the prospect of putting a new engine in my truck. Toyota is coming out with a hybrid next year, and once our hybrid Camry is paid off, I'm going to be REALLY tempted to pick one of those little hybrid trucks up . . . (If only Ford would get off its corporate BUTT and give us a four door turbo diesel!)

Where IS Dave these days? If you hear from him, please tell him I said: "Hello!"
 
its hard to tell without actually being there....but it almost looks like you could cut a little off the end of the tube going to the TB (just 1 or 2"), thus moving that elbow towards the center of the engine bay and away from the hinge....is there enough "give" in your soft joints for that?
 
its hard to tell without actually being there....but it almost looks like you could cut a little off the end of the tube going to the TB (just 1 or 2"), thus moving that elbow towards the center of the engine bay and away from the hinge....is there enough "give" in your soft joints for that?

There are a few of issues at play here. One of them is that in order to get the new intake for the supercharger to fit without running into the heater fan, I had to lift the blower with a couple of spacers. (If I took those out the tubing would fit, but then I wouldn't be able to tighten down the supercharger.) The tubing would lay nicely at the back of the blower, but the vacuum control for the bypass valve sticks up just enough to make the intercooler discharge tube hit the hood hinge. If I'd stuck with 2" tubing, I wouldn't have any of these problems at all, but I wanted the bigger tubes for better flow, and now I don't have enough room to make everything fit!

I'm so close to getting this working it's palpable and frustrating that I can't get it finished right now. My sweetheart would really like me to have my own vehicle running again, as it's rather inconvenient for us to be down to one car.

Ugh!
 
maybe a small "clearence dent" in the tubing to clear the vacuum motor on the back of the s/c? since its on the bottom of the tubing, noone would see it, and it isnt going to cause any decrease in performance...

or maybe stick that part of the tube in a press and oval it out a little in the middle.
 
maybe a small "clearence dent" in the tubing to clear the vacuum motor on the back of the s/c? since its on the bottom of the tubing, noone would see it, and it isnt going to cause any decrease in performance...

or maybe stick that part of the tube in a press and oval it out a little in the middle.

I'm going to try something different. I'd had an adaptor fabricated when I moved the throttle body out of its stock position. Tomorrow, if it's not raining, I'm going to dump my stock (and non-functional) throttle body and replace it with the adaptor. It's four inches shorter, which will give me some "wiggle room" for the intake tube. I'm hoping I can mount it further behind the blower, so it will sit down below the hood hinge.
 
Robert, nice to see you around here again.
Looks like your setup has gotten some major improvements. Looks great and it's pretty practical to boot!
Sometimes I wish I could be somewhat practical like you. I don't have a wifey to tell me no though so my projects get out of control quite easily.
 
Robert, nice to see you around here again.
Looks like your setup has gotten some major improvements. Looks great and it's pretty practical to boot!

When it's RUNNING it's practical. It's been down for over a week now, and it's getting rather frustrating to have it sit there for so long. This afternoon I finally dumped my stock throttle body and put an aluminum adaptor in its place. I spent quite a bit of time with a grinder on the LH hood hinge. The hood will shut now, but I think it's still contacting the tubing and I'm not happy about that.

Also, the bypass hose I picked up won't fit over the flange on the blower intake. (Grrr!!!)

Sometimes I wish I could be somewhat practical like you. I don't have a wifey to tell me no though so my projects get out of control quite easily.

It's not hard to be practical when you're broke! As for a wife, God will bless you with one and you'll find comfort and good fortune! :yahoo:
 
What happened to the factory bypass valve built into the intake tube? And with the clearance of the hood you have to think about engine movement too... the engine rocks quite a bit at the beginning of each gear. You should put up a picture of where you ground so we can tell exactly what is hitting what and possibly one of us can see something to try.
 
When it's RUNNING it's practical. It's been down for over a week now, and it's getting rather frustrating to have it sit there for so long.

Well in the last three months I've had 5 fairly major failures.

Wiring fell onto the turbo elbow and burned thru, disabling fuel pump leaving me stranded.
J3 chip for MAF conversion randomly died, putting it out of commission for about a week.
Timing belt broke.
Split a cylinder wall, required new shortblock.
Head gasket blew.

In the last 3 months, it's been out of commission for at least 5 weeks.
The broker I get, the more practical I think. For example, I haven't run more than 7# boost since I fixed the HG. Before the shortblock went, it was 27-28#.
 
What happened to the factory bypass valve built into the intake tube?

It's part of my problem. It's sitting right below where the intercooler tube needs to connect to the intake manifold, but it sticks up just enough to be in the way. I've ground it down a bit, but the lever will bind on the intercooler tubing because the tubing angles DOWNWARD to get into the manifold.

I can probably solve that issue by dumping the stock manifold for the taller one that Dave sent me. (It's the older style upper manifold.) Will that bolt onto the newer version of the lower manifold, or would I have to change the lower one, too?


And with the clearance of the hood you have to think about engine movement too... the engine rocks quite a bit at the beginning of each gear. You should put up a picture of where you ground so we can tell exactly what is hitting what and possibly one of us can see something to try.

I'm at my brother in law's house right now, so I can't take any photos until tomorrow, but Sundays are normally quite busy for me. (I have clients in the morning and I've got to plan lessons for online teaching in the afternoon.) If it's not raining, I'll try to find a moment to get another photo done for your benefit.

It's very close to fitting--a matter of millimeters. And yes, the engine flex is a problem. I'm beginning to think, however, that if I go to the taller manifold my fitment issues will resolve.
 
Well in the last three months I've had 5 fairly major failures.

Wiring fell onto the turbo elbow and burned thru, disabling fuel pump leaving me stranded.
J3 chip for MAF conversion randomly died, putting it out of commission for about a week.
Timing belt broke.
Split a cylinder wall, required new shortblock.
Head gasket blew.

In the last 3 months, it's been out of commission for at least 5 weeks.
The broker I get, the more practical I think. For example, I haven't run more than 7# boost since I fixed the HG. Before the shortblock went, it was 27-28#.


Wow! That's quite a run of bad luck! (I'm sorry to hear about your woes.) My sweetheart has a tough time with any machine that isn't rock-solid reliable. (Thank you, Toyota!!!) She's been fairly patient with my supercharger project, but she OFTEN makes noise about getting one of those new Toyota hybrid pickups that are supposed to come out next year.

Fortunately for me, I'm too poor to afford one . . . :D
 
The older square hole upper manifold won't bolt onto the 93-94 2 runner lower. Also I don't believe the older square hole lower will bolt onto the 93 head (although it may, but I thought they changed the ports a bit) however it would bolt onto that merkur head that you have/had? As I posted in your other thread though, a longer S curved hose at the intake manifold, or two 45 degree angles with a short connector will get everything to line up correctly and give it a little vibration room and damper.
 

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