New guy here, needing help with bleeding slave/clutch

[Mightyfordranger]

Don't get to discuraged man I have had the transfer in and out of my project truck about 4 times and it's a full size aod also I have fought those clutch setups for days at a time I have had em leave me stranded on more than one occasion. But the bench bleeding method should work well. Also if you were to replace the pilot bearing yourself best way I found to get em out is to pack the hole full of grease flush to the top with no air pockets then take a dowel pin as close to the hole size as possible and whack it with a hammer in the hole it'll hydraulic the bearing out

sent while bored

 

[bossbob]

Yep, I'm familiar with getting the pilot out, I'm really hoping the trans shop can bleed it out for me. Otherwise, with or without the son, I'll pull the tranny again and take care of the pilot if that is the case.

Thanks for all the help, I'll provide a follow up when I know what's up.

 

[Shran]

I don't think it's the pilot bearing. I'm standing firm on a small amount of air trapped somewhere. You'd be surprised how sensitive these things are to even very small amounts.

You get better at pulling transmissions after you do it a couple times. I have done so many that it's about a 6 hour job to remove, do a clutch, and reinstall... that's by myself. Having access to a transmission jack is helpful but not necessary. 4 cylinder and 3.0 trucks are the easiest.

 

[bossbob]

Well here is the prognosis,

Shop say's it could be the pilot bearing, or could be the clutch, he thinks that maybe the springs are week and not allowing full travel of the pressure plate to release the disc. He also said the trans is noisy and will probably need a rebuild if not now, in the near future.

I don't want to be too upside down on this, so my options at this point are.

1. Pull the trans and replace the clutch assembly and see how long the trans last for the price of a clutch kit, $150-$200

2. Pull the trans and have it rebuilt and reinstall with new clutch kit, appx. $600+

3. Have the shop do it, new clutch appx. $600 with labor, $1600-$2000 with rebuilt trans.

4. Sell it for a loss.

These trucks are $1500 all day long in my area.

 

[Shran]

Get another shop to look at it, sounds to me like they either don't want the job or want to stick you for as much as possible while they're in there.

Could also be that they're hoping you'll offer them the truck for next to nothing since they know it's an easy fix. Seen that more than a few times, guy at a body shop tried that tactic on me once too.

 

[bossbob]

Picture added

Thought I would attempt to load a picture so you can see what your helping me with.

The shop said if I pull it he would charge $895 - $1200 depending on what it needs. I'll take to another shop for a 2nd opinion tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

[Jimmyrig]

I work for a shop like that sometimes. What I do with rangers is during the install, with the tranny on the jack and ready to stab I hook up the line to the slave then bleed it backwards. I clamp a hose onto the bleeder, then open the bleeder and force the fluid up through the system. This can be done in a driveway bu putting one end of the hose in a brake fluid bottle, putting a compressed air blower in the bottle, covering it with a rag and holding it down to seal the opening. Then very very carefully applying just enough pressure to the blower to get air. Just enough to feel the bottle swell ip. Any more than that an you wear the whole bottle. Open the bleeder for a while first, because any fluid already in the system will come out of the reservoir and run all over. Go until you get fluid without bubbles thend close the bleeder, unhook the hose, then give it a couple of regular bleeds just to be sure there isn't a bubble in the slave. It's tricky to MacGyver it like this without a real pressure bleeder but it works and is cheeper than taking it to a shop

 

[Spott]

he thinks that maybe the springs are week and not allowing full travel of the pressure plate to release the disc.

That doesn't make sense; weak pressure plate springs would make it easier to release the clutch. The slave cylinder provides all the force and travel to release the clutch, and the springs provide the force to re-engage the clutch.

This raises suspicions that he doesn't know what he's talking about.

 

[bossbob]

Yea, I know it doesn't make sense, neither does the pilot bearing. At least not to me, but I don't claim to know everything either.

At this point, I want to think that I have the system bled really good, just don't understand why it ran perfectly the day we installed it, then a few days later it doesn't want to shift under power?????

 

[Jimmyrig]

The worst a pilot bearing will do is make nasty sounds when you push the pedal down. One thing you might check is the adjustment on the pedal. If your not getting the full throw it will act like your talking about. The rod going from the master to the pedal should have some adjustment. Make it as long as it goes and try it

 

[donaldcon]

No.one has asked, if you pump the clutch pedal will it release?

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[bossbob]

I've tried pumping the pedal, and letting it bounce up to release air. Neither have worked.

If I could get more throw from it, that would probably solve the problem.

So, how do you adjust the pedal rod????

 

[BlackBII]

You didn't happen to use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid in place of DOT 3 by chance?

DOT 5 will compress a tiny bit and not allow the slave to travel fully.

 

[Jimmyrig]

I've tried pumping the pedal, and letting it bounce up to release air. Neither have worked.

If I could get more throw from it, that would probably solve the problem.

So, how do you adjust the pedal rod????

You should be able to unhook it from the pedal and unthread it lIke a bolt. Some do some dont, I don't remember if rangers adjust that way for sure but a quick look with a flashlight sold tell you if it does or not

 

[donaldcon]

There is no adjustment in the clutch rod

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