need opinion on speakers!

[Jay FX4]

20w rms makes your ears bleed jay? you should hear mine, im running over 200w rms per door and my ears dont bleed lol, i think your just clipping your headunits signal to the speakers if they sound harsh enough to hurt your ears.

Obviously I was exaggerating, but I just meant that mine get super loud. Yeah I can make them clip but since that's no way to way to listen to music I meant right at the max volume just before it starts to clip. You're right, when it doers clip it's because the HU doesn't have the balls. The speakers can handle TRIPLE the amount of juice my HU puts out.

My Pioneers laugh at the measly power my HU provides, but my JVC has a clean powerful signal so I don't need an amp.

 

[Loud Ranger]

Obviously I was exaggerating, but I just meant that mine get super loud. Yeah I can make them clip but since that's no way to way to listen to music I meant right at the max volume just before it starts to clip. You're right, when it doers clip it's because the HU doesn't have the balls. The speakers can handle TRIPLE the amount of juice my HU puts out.

My Pioneers laugh at the measly power my HU provides, but my JVC has a clean powerful signal so I don't need an amp.

i was just messin with ya, try em amped and i bet you wont go back.

 

[Jay FX4]

i was just messin with ya, try em amped and i bet you wont go back.

I know, it's cool! I bet your setup sounds unbelievable. My speakers sound outstanding as it is, but I can only imagine what they'd sound like being fed real amp power. I may eventually break down and get an amp, but that means tearing the doors apart again.....

 

[Loud Ranger]

I know, it's cool! I bet your setup sounds unbelievable. My speakers sound outstanding as it is, but I can only imagine what they'd sound like being fed real amp power. I may eventually break down and get an amp, but that means tearing the doors apart again.....

lol...ya id leave them alone.

but you could always just run the wires from the amp to behind the headunit, where the headunit connects to your factory speaker wires. Definitely not the professional way to do it but it would work just fine.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

yeah the temptation to cheap out and not run an amp in my blazer is very well tempting, but i wanna do it right the first time.

that being said, i will have 100 watts rms to each speaker and about 400 rms to the kicker sub i might get. but speakers, headunit, and amp first.

 

[Jay FX4]

lol...ya id leave them alone.

but you could always just run the wires from the amp to behind the headunit, where the headunit connects to your factory speaker wires. Definitely not the professional way to do it but it would work just fine.

Hmmm....that's interesting. What are the disadvantages off doing it that way? If I'm not mistaken, the proper thing to do when wiring an amp is to use heavier gauge speaker wire, correct? So would it be correct to say that the only difference doing it the way you suggested is that I'd still be using the stock speaker wires? In what ways would doing this affect the sound going into my ears?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

Hmmm....that's interesting. What are the disadvantages off doing it that way? If I'm not mistaken, the proper thing to do when wiring an amp is to use heavier gauge speaker wire, correct? So would it be correct to say that the only difference doing it the way you suggested is that I'd still be using the stock speaker wires? In what ways would doing this affect the sound going into my ears?

IF YOUR PUMPING OUT LOUDS OF WATTS, THEN I WOULD UPGRADE THE SPEAKER WIRE. BUT FOR YOUR SETUP, ITS FINE.

edit--wild cap-loc sorry

 

[Jay FX4]

What is it about my setup that would make it okay?

 

[Loud Ranger]

it would be fine. i ran new speaker wire but thats only because i wanted to mount my passive xovers back by my amp so i wouldnt have to take my door panel off if i wanted to change the tweeter level(0db, -3db or -6db) or switch from passive to active, so i had to have 2 runs of speaker wire per door (1 for mid and 1 for tweeter.

Unless your factory wires arent working or your planning on running a huge amount of power to the speakers, you would be fine using factory wires. I have before when i had a alpine v12 4ch amp powering 4 polk coaxials and after switching to 12ga speaker wire i couldnt tell a difference.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

What is it about my setup that would make it okay?

the fact that your not gonna be putting out a ton of watts to those pioneers. and your not looking to win competitions.

big speaker wire is for those who dont have a penis and feel the need to compensate there manlyhood. so they stick big useless subs in cars that cant even drive down the road straight.

me personally, im going to do 12 awg speaker wires in my truck. but im putting out 100x4 rms to the speakers.

 

[Jay FX4]

Wow, thanks so much for the info, guys!
I have a couple more questions, but I'll start a new thread for that. I feel bad since this thread has been

 

[RangerFabWorks]

not a prob jay

 

[tygershark]

The cost was holding me back, I spent a good couple hours looking at www.sonicelectronix.com and I think I found some pioneers that would fit my need a lot more and they only cost 60 bucks for a pair.

6" x 8" 4-way Car Speakers
Power Handling:
Peak: 520 watts per pair / 260 watts each
RMS: 100 watts per pair / 50 watts each
Aramid fiber-reinforced, injection-molded polypropylene (IMPP) cone woofer
Butyl rubber surround
1-5/8" polyester fiber dome midrange
3/8" PET silver film supertweeter
4 ohms impedance
Top-mount depth: 2-7/16"
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty

I have these in mine .. in the back along with These in the front.

The ones in the back do very well on bass .. i was suprised. and the front ones do treb and the snare/rides very well. Im pretty pleased with it.. Especially considering I got each set for like 30 bucks lol

 

[zigzag801]

I got this HU in my car right now, installed in the week I got the truck

General features:
CD receiver with built-in amplifier (17 watts RMS CEA-2006/52 peak x 4 channels)
Bluetooth wireless connectivity works with compatible cell phones, music players, and more
Bluetooth features include hands-free calling, integrated microphone, high-quality audio streaming, and control of compatible equipment (no phone book transfer or Caller ID)
plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs, including discs loaded with MP3 and WMA music files
detachable faceplate
remote control
Audio features:
EQ3 3-band equalizer with preset sound curves
Expandability:
compatible with Sony's iPod® adapter, HD Radio™ tuner, and satellite radio
inputs: front auxiliary input
outputs: 4-channel preamp outputs (front, rear/sub)
Other info
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
warranty: 1 year


I got the stock speakers now and they are all blown except the front.

I'm getting a sub in the truck eventually so of course I'm going to get an amp for the sub so I don't really want to have another amp in the truck for just speakers. But if that's what it takes then I can find a way to get it in there. I just don't want to have to install another battery or something to get all of this stuff to work if I have to. The pioneers are cheap and I like that plus a couple of you said they would be good, should I still get these all around for the truck with the HU i got? and should I maybe get an amp? and what kind? Thanks for all the help!

 

[Loud Ranger]

You could always just get a 5 channel like the one in the link:
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/.../0/SFV/30046?gclid=CJGa1Lqk9ZwCFRRlswod-WqCQg
or:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18808_Hifonics+ZXi+8010.html

your door speakers would be running @ 4 ohms and then get a sub that can be wired to 2 ohms to get the most power from the sub part of the amp.