Need help fast!!

[RustedRanger]

If the air filter is a paper type once it gets wet it's dead. When a paper element gets wet the cellulose (sp) fibers swell shut. That's one reason to change a filter after so many miles even if it doesn't look dirty,especially if it is humid alot. If you look at an old filter you can kinda tell if it's shot because it will look "fuzzy"

 

[mentalbreakdown00]

If the air filter is a paper type once it gets wet it's dead. When a paper element gets wet the cellulose (sp) fibers swell shut. That's one reason to change a filter after so many miles even if it doesn't look dirty,especially if it is humid alot. If you look at an old filter you can kinda tell if it's shot because it will look "fuzzy"

A lot of the newer style filters are fuzzy out of the box, esp 07 up toyota and honda filters..

 

[Bennybooster]

Well that stuff dosnt really matter anyways because the motor is hydro locked and then one of the rods is probably bent because of this so any advice as to do either another 3.0 or would the 4.0 be much more work cause I would rather have the 4.0

 

[-Nathan-]

that sucks man, sorry.

 

[nate09]

unless of course you find a wrecked 4L ranger/expo.

 

[AllanD]

Thats a shame you hydro'd the motor. If you want a 4L you will need the wire harness, computer, motor mounts, tranny, transfer case, axle...only if you have a 7.5 on your Ranger.

It would just be easier to get another 3L that way your truck is not down for very long. I suggest putting a snorkel on your truck to prevent this from happening again. Any 3L from 92-97 would be your best bet. Get the long block and use all of your parts that way you can just install and be back on the road.

To JUST switch to a 4.0 involves most of that list EXCEPT the T-case (Same)
and axles (good idea, but not strictly necissary to an engine swap)

His truck being a 1996 a 1995-up 3.0 will be far easier than a 1991-94 engine
(the 1995-up are SEFI with EDIS, an earlier 3.0 will lack the camshaft synchronizer and those things are a real SOB to install without the proper tools and test equipment.

Sorry to hear about that, but I've done it myself and knew for 100% certain within 15min that the engine was D-E-A-D DEAD!
(before I pulled the plugs I was only 99.44% sure).

UNLESS you have a good local "U-pull-it" or "Pick-N-Pull"
keep it simple and just put another 3.0 in.

AD

 

[Bennybooster]

OK mebbe ill do the 3.0 and definatly a snorkle, on another note does anyone have a price and time difference between the two swaps?

 

[Bennybooster]

I found two explorer part outs in my area for 400 bucks, would it worth it to do the swap?

 

[feellnfroggy]

Its only worth it if you understand that even with a new motor the truck wont retain any extra value and your willing to put the time into it.
My point of the view the knowledge you will gain from doing your own swap is priceless and worth every penny and minute, however the amount of time you can economically afford to have the truck dead in the water (sorry for the pun) only you know. go over the expos with three fine toothed combs. And then give the combs to you buddy.

When you notice something other than what they advertised wrong with the explorer point it out to them. And then offer them 250, show them the cash and see if you can get it cheaper. Maybe even walk away and come back the next day.

 

[crbnunit]

The physical swap is easy. It is the electrical part that is the issues. I wouldn't do it unless you can find a RANGER part out (of the same year as your truck) with a 4.0. You will need the engine, all the sensors, the transmission, the engine wiring harness, the under hood harness and the computer. If you can do that, it will be a plug and play setup. The problem with an Explorer/Ranger swap is the wiring harness/computer is incompatable with your current Ranger wiring. Rewiring is complex and time consuming. If you are going to go through that, you might as well swap in a 302 or 351!

 

[Bennybooster]

Its only worth it if you understand that even with a new motor the truck wont retain any extra value and your willing to put the time into it.
My point of the view the knowledge you will gain from doing your own swap is priceless and worth every penny and minute, however the amount of time you can economically afford to have the truck in the water (sorry for the pun) only you know. go over the expos with three fine toothed combs. And then give the combs to you buddy.

When you notice something other than what they advertised wrong with the explorer point it out to them. And then offer them 250, show them the cash and see if you can get it cheaper. Maybe even walk away and come back the next day.

I really like what your saying here and I think that is what ill do, luckily and unluckily I only work 3-4 days a week so less money but also less commuting so I have been getting rides from my parents and my brother and I will ride my bike if I have too, tonight I am going to make a game plan with my dad and we will move on from there.

 

[colby450xc]

And after you are all done with this motor resto, install a snorkel if you're gonna go into mud holes that deep. How deep was this thing anyway?

 

[nate09]

you could always part out the expos and scrap whats left to make up some cash.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Im betting it wasnt but 2-3 ft deep and he was just going to fast, our intakes are in the front bumper and it only takes a bit of slosh to fawk our motors up.

 

[Bennybooster]

Im betting it wasnt but 2-3 ft deep and he was just going to fast, our intakes are in the front bumper and it only takes a bit of slosh to fawk our motors up.

It was probably a little over a foot deep and I was only doing like ten but I dont have a bumper on right now so the intake was completely exposed,once the motor is fixed im snorkleing and completely waterproofing the stupid thing so I dont screw up my DD anymore. Ill probably go easier on it too.