My Explorer project...

[LOGANSTANFORTH]

That's essentially what the Stonecrusher's geometry is like, so that should work well.

You MIGHT still need the larger SJ drop pitman arm though if it still wants to do a side-side wiggle through dips at intersections (you are up pretty high it looks like), though what I would do it try it on the arm you have now first and see how it drives, then go from there.

It has to work better than what I got now, I will go to the junkyard and buy a steering setup off another Explorer and modify it to my needs so I don't end up with a totally screwed setup if this don't work. On the driver side tie rod I will just cut it in half so the stock half is still connected to the knuckle and extend it with some thick wall tubing and on the other end I will put a bung and a heim to connect to the saddle I'm going to build. I wish I could keep from having to use heims but I would rather only use 1 than 4 in the system...

 

[4x4junkie]

A guy on here (Snowthrower IIRC) years ago built one using 3 stock draglinks, and used all TREs.

What he did was cut the tapered hole part out of one draglink and welded it onto his stock draglink in such a position so that he could then take yet another (3rd) draglink and use it as his driverside tierod.

The setup was a bit ugly, but it worked quite well.

There were pics of his setup on here at one time but I seem to recall they were lost in one of the forum changes we had back around '07.

 

[LOGANSTANFORTH]

A guy on here (Snowthrower IIRC) years ago built one using 3 stock draglinks, and used all TREs.

What he did was cut the tapered hole part out of one draglink and welded it onto his stock draglink in such a position so that he could then take yet another (3rd) draglink and use it as his driverside tierod.

The setup was a bit ugly, but it worked quite well.

There were pics of his setup on here at one time but I seem to recall they were lost in one of the forum changes we had back around '07.

I am going to buy a new driver side tierod and go to the race car supply house and see if they got any threaded or swedge tubes that will work with them...

 

[LOGANSTANFORTH]

***UPDATE***

Neighbor is giving me a full width 44 and 9 inch out from under a SASed S10 that he is going to scrap with a set of 15x10 aluminum wheels, just for rebuilding two carburetors for him.

Front...

Rebuild with new seals and bearings
Regear to 4.56 to match 9 inch that is already geared to 4.56
Limited slip or aussie locker
1 piece coil/control arm mounts (similar to these but not from Ballistic)
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Flat-bottom-radius-arm-coil-mounts_p_1184.html
"Y" style tube radius arm setup with heims at the frame and bushings at the axle
Heimed cross-over steering.

Rear...

Rebuild with new seals and bearings
Install locking differential of some type
"Daytona" pinion support
Swap to disk brakes.

The money I would spend correcting the steering on my Explorer will buy most, if not all, of my parts...