Motorsickle oil?

[rusty ol ranger]

If the problem is restricted oil passages from worn cam bearings, why not overhaul it and replace the cam bearings? The article is wrong about 2.8's having only 2 exhaust ports per side, that was only true of the 2.6.

Why would i overhaul an otherwise fine running engine when i can (hopefully) get it to shut up by dumping stuff into it?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If the problem is restricted oil passages from worn cam bearings, why not overhaul it and replace the cam bearings? The article is wrong about 2.8's having only 2 exhaust ports per side, that was only true of the 2.6.

2.8 had two ports clustered together, 2.9 had them spread out evenly.

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Why would i overhaul an otherwise fine running engine when i can (hopefully) get it to shut up by dumping stuff into it?

For the same reason that some here would tell me to replace the rad and water pump on my Taurus (both leak), rather than just adding stop leak. Adding "something" is a temporary solution to a permanent problem. You're better off to replace the bad parts.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

For the same reason that some here would tell me to replace the rad and water pump on my Taurus (both leak), rather than just adding stop leak. Adding "something" is a temporary solution to a permanent problem. You're better off to replace the bad parts.

Changing a radiatior and water pump is a totally different ballgame compared to an rebuild.

 

[19Walt93]

I've taken dash panels out to fix a squeak and pulled the engine out of my Mustang to repaint it and eliminate a squeak from the clutch fork. I guess I don't tolerate noises well. The tick is a sign of a mechanical problem and I'd have to fix it, if you can quiet it down and be happy with it, that's what you should do. If I did that it would blow up on me.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've taken dash panels out to fix a squeak and pulled the engine out of my Mustang to repaint it and eliminate a squeak from the clutch fork. I guess I don't tolerate noises well. The tick is a sign of a mechanical problem and I'd have to fix it, if you can quiet it down and be happy with it, that's what you should do. If I did that it would blow up on me.

Most people just put up with the noise.

 

[cbxer55]

The only real additive that motorcycle oil has that car oil doesn't is zinc. For the wet clutch. Which is the reason car oil isn't good for bikes, the friction reducers make the wet clutch slip. I use motorcycle oil in my bikes, but only to top it up when the level gets low. Because 20W-50 motorcycle oil is all that I usually have in my garage, being I have two bikes. And, btw, been running 20W-50 Valvoline Max Life in my Ranger since 2002. Has 166,000 miles on it. Has never been a problem in the winter, even on those rare days we get close to or slightly below zero. And yeah, 20W-50 is great for making the engine quieter.

Know what's funny? The Valvoline oil change place down the street used to put 20W-50 in my Ranger all the time. Never questioned me on it. The customer is always right, correct? Last time I took it there, two yeara ago, they flat refused. Told me it's a 5W-20 engine. I called him a moron, told him it was a 10W-30 engine, that's what the oil cap used to say. And the owners manual had 10W-40 and 20W-50 in it as options in the temperature chart, said 20W-50 is still good down to 20 below zero. They refused. I told him, "you just lost a customer forever." I'll change my own oil from this point on. ASSHAT! I do believe they went "Green" on me.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Isnt zinc good for pre 97 engines?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Isnt zinc good for pre 97 engines?

Flat tappet engines so your year will vary. Like the 302 started going roller in '86 for some applications in '86, 351W was in the mid 90's... there is no clear cutoff.

IMO once a flat tappet cam is broken in it isn't a big deal though.

 

[cbxer55]

Isnt zinc good for pre 97 engines?

From what I've read in motorcycle rags, the Zinc is mainly there for the wet clutch and the transmission gears. Most motorcycles, other than harleys, have the transmission gears in the same oil as the engine. The gears tend to shear apart the polymers that make oil what it is. Zinc prevents that. I fail to see how zinc would be harmful to any engine myself. As I said, I use it as a top up oil in all my vehicles. See list below in my signature line. Has never hurt a thing. My Lightning is a 5W-20 engine, yet it's never hurt a thing topping it off with 20W-50 motorcycle oil. Been doing it with the Ranger since I bought the truck in 2002.

The only problem with motorcycle oil? It's more expensive. There's not as many bikes out there as there are cars/trucks. So fewer people to divide up the cost of making it. But, I've seen auto synthetic stuff that's as expensive, or more so. So, six-of-one, half-dozen-of-the-other.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Flat tappet engines so your year will vary. Like the 302 started going roller in '86 for some applications in '86, 351W was in the mid 90's... there is no clear cutoff.

IMO once a flat tappet cam is broken in it isn't a big deal though.

The 2.9 is not a roller motor.....either is my 460 lol.

Only the windsors switched.

From what I've read in motorcycle rags, the Zinc is mainly there for the wet clutch and the transmission gears. Most motorcycles, other than harleys, have the transmission gears in the same oil as the engine. The gears tend to shear apart the polymers that make oil what it is. Zinc prevents that. I fail to see how zinc would be harmful to any engine myself. As I said, I use it as a top up oil in all my vehicles. See list below in my signature line. Has never hurt a thing. My Lightning is a 5W-20 engine, yet it's never hurt a thing topping it off with 20W-50 motorcycle oil. Been doing it with the Ranger since I bought the truck in 2002.

The only problem with motorcycle oil? It's more expensive. There's not as many bikes out there as there are cars/trucks. So fewer people to divide up the cost of making it. But, I've seen auto synthetic stuff that's as expensive, or more so. So, six-of-one, half-dozen-of-the-other.

I was just gonna try it in my 2.9 but i dont wanna do more harm then good. I was thinking about 10w50, that way the pump aint tryin to pump syrup when its cold but when hot itll stay good and thick

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The 2.9 is not a roller motor.....either is my 460 lol.

Only the windsors switched.

I was just saying a blanket statement "before '97" doesn't really apply.

 

[cbxer55]

The 2.9 is not a roller motor.....either is my 460 lol.

Only the windsors switched.


I was just gonna try it in my 2.9 but i dont wanna do more harm then good. I was thinking about 10w50, that way the pump aint tryin to pump syrup when its cold but when hot itll stay good and thick

I can't recall seeing 10W-50 oil anywhere. I would likely use it if I found some. But, like I said, been using 20W-50 in the old girl 3.0 for 20 years. Never been a problem, and we do get occasional days near or slightly below zero here. Fortunately, not that often. Not even once a year. Typically here, teens is about as low as we get. There will always be naysayers "you shouldn't run 20W-50 in engines." But every vehicle I have, the owners manual has it in that chart that shows oil in correlation to temperatures. And in my book, if it's in the owners manual, you can use it in the engine. The exception is my Lightning, which only shows up to 10W-30 iirc. It's the only vehicle I have that has 5w-20 on the oil cap. My 07 Mustang has 10W-30 on the cap. 20W-50 is not a huge jump in a 10W-30 engine. But, like I said, I noly use the 20W-50 cycle oil as a top up oil, I don't fill the crankcase up with it. Only the Ranger and my two bikes.

 

[Grumpaw]

I can't recall seeing 10W-50 oil anywhere. I would likely use it if I found some. But, like I said, been using 20W-50 in the old girl 3.0 for 20 years. Never been a problem, and we do get occasional days near or slightly below zero here. Fortunately, not that often. Not even once a year. Typically here, teens is about as low as we get. There will always be naysayers "you shouldn't run 20W-50 in engines." But every vehicle I have, the owners manual has it in that chart that shows oil in correlation to temperatures. And in my book, if it's in the owners manual, you can use it in the engine. The exception is my Lightning, which only shows up to 10W-30 iirc. It's the only vehicle I have that has 5w-20 on the oil cap. My 07 Mustang has 10W-30 on the cap. 20W-50 is not a huge jump in a 10W-30 engine. But, like I said, I noly use the 20W-50 cycle oil as a top up oil, I don't fill the crankcase up with it. Only the Ranger and my two bikes.

10w50, 15w50 and 20w50 is readily available, usually via auto stores, NAPA, ect 15w50 and 20w50 is available at Wal Mart.
Available in both dino and synthetic.
Not used very much for current vehicles, but was widely used in the 80's and 90's
Primary reason for manufacturers now calling for 0w20 and 5w20 is to meet EPA mileage requirements. Thin weight oils flow better/faster, and less friction by a small amount than thicker oils.
Result is maybe an extra 5 miles per tankful of gas. But that lets the auto makers tout their outstanding mileage.
Grumpaw

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I didnt know 10w50 existed either till i googled it. 48 bucks for 6 qts of it on crapazon.