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Motorcraft 5W-20


i really hate to start this back up again...but shadey, you want numbers? how about the 7-8 guys on this single thread that have personally experienced frams low quality?

and the reason i personally dont use fram is because of my personal experiences with them. in a sense i was hating fram before it was "cool" :icon_rofl:

everybodies doin it, man!
 
i really hate to start this back up again...but shadey, you want numbers? how about the 7-8 guys on this single thread that have personally experienced frams low quality?
Ok. How about the millions of us who use the product without problems? My number is bigger than your number. :)

Some of the problems I see with filters, and not just Fram, are:

The filter is on much too tight. In some instances you have to punch a hole in the filter and crowbar the damn thing off.

No lubricant used on the seal, and when it is tightened it will not slip and damages the seal. Or, doesn't allow the filter to tighten all the way, and it leaks.

Not cleaning the seal surface, or dropping dirt into the filter on re-installation.

Wrong filter used.

When the above problems occur, guess what gets the blame? That is why I don't give much credence to these problems unless it is verified in some manner. Many of these same people that screw the filter up on installation are the ones telling everyone else it is a bad filter, and not to use it. From some of the posts I read here, some of these guys can **** up a steel ball with a rubber mallet.

But, that is how human nature is, pay heed to the 7 or 8 who have problems, and ignore the million with no problems. It happens all the time.

Plus this little gem: Some dufus cuts a filter open, and THINKS it can't do a good job of filtration by the way it LOOKS. Classic.

The toilet paper filters were being used on automobiles as late as the early/mid 60's. A couple of lawsuits finally saw their demise. shady
 
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In what year Rangers did Ford start saying, use 5w-20? What's the difference in my '00 Ranger and the new ones that you can no longer use 10w30?
my dad's '03 F150 4.6L calls for motorcraft premium 5w20.

They issued a statment at some point that they recomend running 5w-20 in just about everything.

The only problem I have had with Fram is in my Ranger the filter is constantly covered by oil (valve cover gaskets, not related to the filter) and the grippy stuff starts bubbling and coming off. Otherwise they seem to have worked fine for what they need to do, but now I run Motorcraft for both trucks. You can get them for a couple bucks at just about any Wal-Mart.
 
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This stuff about "I hate Fram" is really getting ridiculous.

SOME Fram filters have issues due to inappropriate additives (PTFE; Teflon). Teflon's manufacturer even says not to use that in internal combustion engines; it is always LESS slippery than oil and has a tendency to settle out, which can plug things. Some other Fram filters don't have this additive. They are COMPLETELY adequate, and I'll agree with Shady that some kind of documented actual damage is called for. Wix has a cut-up that says theirs is "better." While it may look better, there is no evidence that it actually is.

As for the original oil question, there is VERY little difference between brands. Use oil of the appropriate weight. Do NOT adjust the second number for climate. But do adjust the first; that's the cold flow characteristics.

So, 0W-20 in (very) cold climates might be fine; the 0W differs from 5W at 0 deg C. 5W-20 in sub-arctic and warmer climates, and in the summer nearly everywhere. The 2nd number (20 in this case) indexes the viscosity at 100 deg C, quite close to normal operating temperature. Your vehicle spends most of its time there (and if it doesn't, you will have quite a number of problems such as plugged exhaust, poor mileage and so on, and you need to fix that). Do NOT adjust viscosity for age; excessive viscosity will damage the tightest clearances first, and there is no way to measure these without tearing the engine down (oil pressure tells you the largest clearances).

The major differences are between synthetic and conventional. Use synthetic if the owner's manual calls for it, or to solve a few specific problems (extreme cold flow, oil-use detonation, etc.).
 
Hey i would use 3 types of oil either 10W30, 5W30 or 5W20 they will all run in your engine just fine i work for ford and 5W20 is reccomended, if you have minor leaks running a bit heavier oil wont hurt. as for filters i used to run fram but i have had seal problems with them so now i stick with motocraft
 
Shady, Check this out < http://wefilterit.com/index.htm > Or Google "Frantz filter". I never used one, just know they are still out there.
Holy smoke!! You mean there are still people who will buy this junk? Has no one ever seen a wet roll of toilet paper? It turns back into pulp. But, some purchase fuel line magnets, and Tonados, so, I guess I answered my own question.......... shady
 
I've been changing oil filters for about 25 years. I've done oil changes everyplace I've worked. I did 3 oil changes today(that is not my normal job).
I have never seen a Fram oil filter failure.
I did have a Wix fuel filter fail! BAN WIX!!!!!! Just kiddin', You get what I mean though.
 
Wow... sure am glad I took the time to read the same posts over and over and over and over and over and over again. Has anything been accomplished in this thread? I was hoping for something, but I see nothing.

Some people don't like Fram, good for them. I personally use Purolator. But none of this has anything to do with what oil to use.

So back on topic... someone mentioned something about Ford putting out a TSB changing the 5W30 to 5W20? Did I read that correctly? Are they back dating that or something? Tried to follow, but too much crap about oil filter wars in there.
 
The only gasoline engine that Ford hasn't switched over to 5w20 is still the 4.0L....still calls for 5w30
 

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