Mechanic wrong or am I, drop brackets??

[tanbuddy]

Ive seen radius arm bushings that can corret camber at napa. If u maxed out the camber bushings u can go that route too

 

[kunar]

Ive seen radius arm bushings that can corret camber at napa. If u maxed out the camber bushings u can go that route too

that will only change caster though. if you can get camber in but caster is not quite right, these may work. on top of that, correct caster is not nearly as important as correct camber.

 

[tanbuddy]

whoops i ment caster, brainfart lol

 

[Mutant Pony]

Something else that no one else seemed to address: New springs need to "settle" or take a "set". If you have the camber adjusted perfectly now, In a couple months it will need to be adjusted again.

 

[4x4junkie]

thanks for the input. I will attempt to get them in line myself. When you say "position M"...i am assuming you mean to allign notch M with the tab sticking out of my steering knuckle. Remember these are 2 peice...there is an unmarked sleeve that spins inside the bushing as well...idk where that one should be set. I am assuming that is the caster adjustment?

Assuming your bushings look like this:

...
Align the "M" on the inner part of the bushing with the notch on the outer part, then insert the bushing with either "M" or "A" toward the wheel (depends on which side it's on, driver or passenger).

Loanranger's point about caster is also correct, if the bushings barely correct the camber at their max setting, you may not be able to dial in the caster. Lowering the lift height is really the only practical solution for this as well.

Yes, the letters on the inner (top) part of the bushing align to the notch on the bottom one. As I said, the instructions that came with the bushings say the letter "N" is actually 0 degrees.

My bushings go all the way to 4 degrees, which is where I got the negative camber from (at the maximum, or "Z" position). I guess this gives me some slack to get the truck to spec. I will post a pic after I take it to the alignment shop so you can see the difference.

Sounds like a different bushing from the ones I've seen (above).
Most of the ones I've used (Ingalls 594, etc.), "M" is the setting for maximum degree of offset. Whichever bushing type you have, set it to maximum offset to check if it has sufficient range (the charts for it should tell you where to put it).


BTW, the bushings themselves do not have "separate" caster & camber adjustments, however they do allow you to adjust one while maintaining the other through use of the supplied charts (provided the suspension is within range of alignment).

 

[TrexMex]

Well, took the truck to an alignment shop yesterday and they weren't intimidated by the TTB... bad news are I need new upper ball joints so they can get the damn thing to spec... so they say.. I guess I'll replace the lower ones as well if I get in the mess involved in changing the upper ones... Will do brakes as well..

I still owe you the pics, though... at least they did set toe and camber as straight as possible in the meantime I come back for the alignment next week. They did't charge anything btw. unbelievable....

Junkie, here's a pic of the bushings I got...

yes, they are slightly different.... I guess in the end they accomplish the same though...

 

[whitebassbenny]

so how did it go at the shop ?

 

[sfwjesse]

well idk about trex but i ended up doing the camber myself....putting a level on my rotor and turning the bushing till it was as level as possible. When i put it back on the ground the camber was better but the bushings weren't quite enough to put the tires flat. Its ok though....i wont be putting alot of road miles on it.