M5OD-R1 help\suggestions

[thebatpeople]

Other than the fact that they can't be bolted to your engine because the bolt holes won't line up, they are completely compatible.

Well, it stinks to have my options narrow, but at least I know exactly what I am after.

So, what else should be replaced while the tranny is out? (bearings, seals, mount?)
truck has about 160k
the clutch was replaced about 50k ago(got 110k out of the original )
I need to fill the clutch reservoir every so often.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'll just say it now... the top two bolts are going to be a bitch without the proper tools.

swivel head 13mm or 1/2" ratchet wrench from the bottom will get them every time (I just used a non swivel ratchet wrench on my turbo engine this afternoon), if they're super tight you can get to them from the top too so have a friend stand on top pushing or pulling to help out... with A/C from the bottom on the passenger side is the only option.

I've had my transmission and/or engine out 4 times and helped with another 2.3 Ranger clutch a few years ago... I've used a wrench every time but a year ago when I put the centerforce in I did it in a friends garage and he used a crap load of extensions from the bottom with a swivel socket so he could use his impact...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Well, it stinks to have my options narrow, but at least I know exactly what I am after.

So, what else should be replaced while the tranny is out? (bearings, seals, mount?)
truck has about 160k
the clutch was replaced about 50k ago(got 110k out of the original )
I need to fill the clutch reservoir every so often.

I wouldn't call that narrow, I'd say 50% plus of the 4x2 rangers out there in that year range are 2.3L powered... the problem with them is the engine is near bullet proof so unless they are wrecked they don't end up parted out...

If you're loosing clutch fluid change the master and slave cylinder while you are in there (at least the slave cylinder, master is doable with the transmission installed, slave isn't), the clutch is a judgment call since it's probably half worn or so (depends on driving habits and use, I'm on clutch #4 since I got my truck but it's been used offroad a lot with too tall of gears for the tires and engine power...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Extensions and u-joint or swivel sockets is how I've always done them.

Richard

 

[rboyer]

The best way i've found is to use a 13mm socket on a 24 inch breaker bar. It allows you to take all of the rear-facing bellhousing bolts off with ease. The bolts that face the front are a pain, I normally use a combination of a 13mm ratchet wrench and a 3/8"dr breaker bar with a 12pt 13mm socket to break them loose. An air ratchet for the starter bolts will save a small chunk of time too. I literally had one out in 20 minutes before with somebody standing by to hand me tools as I shouted for them. That truck of course didn't have any issues with rotted crossmember bolts like half of them do.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I have always been able to get all the bell housing bolts with a 13mm gearwrench. Flex head helps, but not a requirement.

-PlumCrazy

 

[thebatpeople]

I found 2 locally at a good price.
What if I am buying someone elses hosed tranny?
Any teltale signs I should look for?
Other than the obvious missing teeth?
Mine whined for a 18 months before it gave up.
Any idea what 6 months of whiney gear looks like?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Look at the fluid if you can, it should be a nice clean red, if it's black with metal on the drain plug then there's probably an issue, a stock 2.3 doesn't have enough power to break one unless it's ran dry or something, believe me, if the tranny was weak mine would be shot... I believe it has about 200k on it and it's behind a turbo engine right now (well, it's on my garage floor right now, but was behind a turbo engine yesterday...)

 

[ericlerouge]

No, the R1 out of an Explorer or a 3.0 or 4.0 Ranger will not work, nor will the R1HD from the SOHC 4.0. The problem is the bell pattern. The Lima engines (2.0/2.3 (not to be confused with the later 2.3L Duratec)/2.5) have a unique bell housing bolt pattern and starter location. The M5OD uses a 1-piece case with integrated bell housing, so you can't just swap them. Other than the fact that they can't be bolted to your engine because the bolt holes won't line up, they are completely compatible.

i know it is old, but does that means i can swap internals from a r1hd (or even r2) into my 2.3 lima m50d? without modifications?

lookin for infos as my turbo project will soon be on the way...

 

[Explorin94]

i know it is old, but does that means i can swap internals from a r1hd (or even r2) into my 2.3 lima m50d? without modifications?

lookin for infos as my turbo project will soon be on the way...

The R1 yes....the R2 NO!

 

[scotts90ranger]

i know it is old, but does that means i can swap internals from a r1hd (or even r2) into my 2.3 lima m50d? without modifications?

lookin for infos as my turbo project will soon be on the way...

Don't worry about the tranny, I've been running a 200k mile M5OD behind my turbo 2.3 for several years and the only thing showing issues are the synchro's... they're basically as strong as a T5, and much easier to find...

 

[AllanD]

As for the needle bearings inside the trans?

The countershaft (aka "Cluster Gear") is Sorta one-piece
for the "Drop spur" (the cog driven by the input shaft)
1st, 2nd & 3rd, but 5th gear and Reverse "Float" on the tail of the cluster gear when not engaged.

5th and reverse actually shift on the cluster gear and are rigidly splined to
the output shaft, and yes, there are needle bearings inside it.

Thinking of the old Occam's Razor interpretation used in medicine...
"When you hear hoofbeats, think about Horses instead of Zebras"
is spot on in this case.

Don't THINK it's Ebola, The Plague, etc, when it can simply be the common cold.

In this case the "pocket bearing" mentioned early in this thread is most likely.

I will say that a lot of people LIKE blaming the "Rubber plugs" because it excuses
them from not checking the oil level in the trans for years at a time..

The more usual reason for fluid loss is a design flaw. the "infamous squiggle"
in the rear T-case mating flange.

The more usual reason for the pocket bearing to fail, other than the VERY OBVIOUS
"old age" is what an aircraft powerplant technician would call "domestic damage"

This boils down to the plastic shifter bushings breaking and falling into the trans

"Oh, that won't hurt anything they're plastic"

Kinda but not exactly they get chewed into bits that plug the critical oil feed holes to the pocket bearing inside the front bearing retainer....

Can you say "Oops!"? sure you can...

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