Lower Radiator Hose Leak

[arcwelder]

Hey all,

I have a 2002 Ranger with the 3.0L engine. The lower radiator hose was leaking at the tee, and so I replaced it. I used a Gates hose and used worm clamps instead of the spring clamps. I tightened all of the worm clamps with a screwdriver. I'm now getting a leak where the hose connects to the bottom of the engine when the system is pressurized. I used a small socket wrench to tighten the worm clamp down as much as I could, and the leak didn't go away. So I then tried tightening it slightly more with a ratchet wrench, and still no luck. I can try tightening it further, but I'm not sure if I'll just end up breaking the clamp. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions? I'm not getting any leaks at either of the other two connections.

Thanks in advance.

 

[pjtoledo]

did you clean the crud from the output port?
is it on all the way? that one was hard for me to see.

did you scratch the output port during hose removal? hoses won't seal a deep scratch.

I prefer the spring clamps, totally your choice of clamps though.

 

[Uncle Gump]

You sure it's not the water pump or timing cover leaking and running down the hose?

 

[DILLARD000]

Be sure to use quality WormClamps from your local parts store;
lots of cheap WormClamps being sold online that strip easily & do not tighten.
After you've made sure the HoseBarb is clean+smooth+unbroken & you're sure the leak is not from the WaterPump above,
you can double up with 2 WormClamps next to each other on the hose connection.

 

[arcwelder]

Thanks all for your replies.

did you clean the crud from the output port?
is it on all the way? that one was hard for me to see.

did you scratch the output port during hose removal? hoses won't seal a deep scratch.

I prefer the spring clamps, totally your choice of clamps though.

I don't remember seeing much crud on the output port, but I wiped it down with a clean rag. Do I need to clean it with something like carb cleaner?

It looks all the way in to me, but it was hard for me to see as well.

In retrospect, I probably should have used the spring clamps. I unfortunately threw them out already though and haven't been able to find any in the right size.

You sure it's not the water pump or timing cover leaking and running down the hose?

I'm not sure to be honest. It's really hard to see back there. I can only see maybe the back half of the hose connection. I tried using a cooling system pressure tester, and I don't see the leak coming from the back half of the hose connection, so I assumed it's coming from the front half of the hose. I think the leak lessened a bit the more I tightened the clamp, but I could be wrong. I could see the leak at as low as about 10 psi. Any tips for getting eyes on the water pump? Any way to know if it's coming from the timing cover without removing the timing cover?

Be sure to use quality WormClamps from your local parts store;
lots of cheap WormClamps being sold online that strip easily & do not tighten.
After you've made sure the HoseBarb is clean+smooth+unbroken & you're sure the leak is not from the WaterPump above,
you can double up with 2 WormClamps next to each other on the hose connection.

I actually used these Gates Constant Tension Clamps (https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-p...plings.p.7408-000000-000002.v.7408-00332.html), which I think are good quality. I probably over-torqued it now; I'm not sure if I should loosen it?

I was going to add a second clamp like you said, but there's unfortunately not enough room on this output port to get two on there. I installed the one clamp maybe about a quarter of an inch from the end of the hose. Is it better to get the clamp as close to the hosebarb as possible?


Thanks again all.

 

[Falcon 61]

Happy Friday to all trouble shooting this rad hose leak. I have an 04 super cab 6ft box 2wd with 3.0LV6. This vehicle is going to be a gift to a gentleman that has gone year with a broken-back, sliding along just above water, after 20 yrs they gave him his licence back. As you guessed, no wheels. I hope to change that. Just a back note. I was raised by an Auto Mechanic, that put himself through training in Alberta, starting 1947. So I have a far amount of old school ability as I work with my father for 5 years, but moved to welding/fitting, as I so wanted to build ships, and I did. Now the Ranger, New Battery, brakes replaced, power steering flush/replaced fluid, heads resurfaced head gaskets along with top-end kit, new water pump, new rad, thermostat, main hose in great shape, assuming changed at some point. The Problem, questioned on install, that hose slipped on way to easy to lower port of water pump. Reused spring clamp. All seemed good, taken to full temp 3 times. then it sat, as I worked those brakes and still have drivers door hinge replacement and door locks and key tumbler, as the vehicle had ben Broke-into to steel, but battery toast. Yes there's lots of damage also. but well working these other items, noticed fluid under truck yesterday. Leaking right at top of bottom hose, where pushed on pump. Short out-let, so as already mentioned, second clamp point less as I did try. Question. I though quality controls had improved,LMAO. Replaced a water pump yrs back on my 66 Galixie 500 7L, went with a after market unit, the out port was just a little smaller, as the New Hose just slipped right on, and it also leaked. Anyone come across this problem, parts not OEM? On the 66 there was room for a second clamp close to the flanged port. Just another thought, and is this still a thing, on 85 Chrysler 2.5L i4, replace rad. It had a rubber condom(sheath) for bottom port on rad for larger hoses, as the rad fit more than one model. Is this a thing for water pumps also??
If you read this far thanks for looking, painting a picture in words. Well back to playing on the gift.
Falcon61 out.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would look at a better clamp. One with a T-bolt.

 

[SenorNoob]

Just a regular worm drive hose clamp should be more than enough for a radiator hose. I had one not cutting it once, but I was missing an engine mount so every time I shifted hard the engine moved like 10 inches. It just pulled the lower hose off completely.... LOL

Seriously tho. The spring clamps do soften over time and are vulnerable to even slight differences in dimension. (Like say thinner hose.)

 

[Falcon 61]

I would look at a better clamp. One with a T-bolt.

I'm thinking your speaking of the tandem round bar with a 1/4" all thread cross bolt. Like that idea. Had those type on my new 88 F150 4.9L,SC,4x4, loved and used that beast for 29yrs 3 month 12 days, sold to another. Thanks for a good reminder.