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Locked 3.0


The motor had about 215k on it and I drove it hard. An awesome big thanks goes out to all you guys and the knowledge that is on this website. It's just plain amazing.
 
Also now I started the truck and moved it to the driveway and a couple days later i started it back up and backed down to its previous spot. The next day in went to start it and everything comes on but no crank and the abs light on the dash comes on. I have checked the wires going to the starter the battery and the fuse block and no known blown fuses. This truck is turning into a nightmare. I have owned 2 98 2wd auto 4.0 rangers and they were great trucks and this one, the 07 has the 3.0l and its problem after problem. Can you help with the no start issue?
 
What have you done since the first post in this thread? Seems like a safe assumption that you've replaced the cam synchronizer. Anything else?
 
I'm confused... did you get another motor? :icon_confused:
 
since we can't see everything you did,
have you replaced the cam sync unit with one that has a good drive gear?????????

or as Dirtman asked, replaced the entire motor?
 
If you haven't replaced or rebuilt that engine, stop trying to drive it. It's broke, broken, brokeded, busticated, fubar, ruined, seized, dead, drt (dead right there), DOA, bought the farm, and above all, absolutely will not run like that.
 
Sorry guys but I have swapped motors and that is it. I tore apart the brokeded one and that's when I found out about the cam synch. With the used motor I put in all I did was put the motor in. I had a security issue which, we just ran a ground wire from the plugs on the firewall to a better ground spot and it started right up. I have started the truck a few times and this last time I started it rolled about 10ft and when I went to start it back up a couple days later, everything came on but no crank of the motor and when i try to crank it the (abs light) comes on the dash.
 
I have checked what I can with both fuse box locations and the starter wire.i have even topped the battery off with charge. I also did what I know how to do with checking resistance in some of the relays and I hear the fuel pump kick on but no crank..
 
Ok. Sound like time for the 50-50 test. See if it will fire whole squirting starting fluid or fuel into the intake. If it fires then quits, it's a fuel problem. If it doesn't fire at all, uts a spark problem.
 
Ok. Sound like time for the 50-50 test. See if it will fire whole squirting starting fluid or fuel into the intake. If it fires then quits, it's a fuel problem. If it doesn't fire at all, uts a spark problem.
If I'm reading it right, the starter's not even turning the motor over.
 
If I'm reading it right, the starter's not even turning the motor over.
I think you're right.

Sometimes cranks. Sometimes doesn't. Sounds like loose connection.
 
Right I have checked the wires and seems to be ok connection and also no crank at all so how would it fire with starting fluid if it doesn't even crank?
 
Right I have checked the wires and seems to be ok connection and also no crank at all so how would it fire with starting fluid if it doesn't even crank?
It won't. I missed the part about it not cranking.
 
Does it click when going to start position... like it wants to but won't.

And seriously... you should have told us that you already swapped the engine. Each and every one of us figured you had a cooked engine.

Now lets just start over...

you swapped a replacement engine into your truck...

What EXACTLY is or isn't it doing?
 
If you use a piece of wire to put 12 volts directly from the battery to the small terminal on the starter relay, does it crank?

If you have good wiring connections from battery positive to starter relay, starter relay to starter, ground from engine block to battery negative, then it should start when 12 volts is applied to the small terminal on the starter relay. If not, then starter relay or starter is bad.
 

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