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Little Track loc question here


You can put one right into your diff, but you may need to re shim the carrier a little.

PS.. Ill sell you one for $75 shipped
 
Plum is right. Replacing the center differential is fine.

However, there are some things you'll want to consider before just slamming the used one in.

You'll probably need to reshim the carrier (to the left or right in the pumpkin) and make sure your backlash and everything is straight. You should expect .008" - .012" between the ring gear movement and the pinion gear. For this, you'll need a magnetic base holder to hold a dial gauge to measure this. Marking compound (to check your wear pattern) and a shim kit will be needed.

Another wise idea is to get new carrier bearings. You're already here, so why not. The original bearing races (cups) should also be used. You can get away with using used bearings, but use your best judgement: if they're too loose or out of tolerance, get new ones instead.

Make sure the clutches in the pack are good. Assume that they are worn. I would replace the clutch pack.

If you drive on the street, this is a good option. However, if you occasionally go off road or are putting a lot of poewr to the wheels, I'd go with an automatic locker instead.

PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
In my 31 spline 8.8" swap, I had a LSD and wanted a locker. I had to buy an "open" carrier, put the locker in, and check it that way. As things turned out, I did not need any shims. My original configuration was still valid with the new differential carrier/case. You might get lucky.


That being said, Plum offered to sell you his LSD for $75. I'll sell you mine for $74. (jk jk)

...but I WILL sell you my shim kit that I didn't use for the 8.8"...I think I paid somewhere around $20 +tax for it. I'll sell it to you for $18 shipped.


Just trying to help a fellow TRS-er out.

Good luck.
 
Thank you for the reply. I am mostly driving it on the street and my truck is 4x4 but in the winter here with 3 feets of snow I'd rather have some grip on my rear end axle.

I will follow your advice and replace the bearing which is in fact very smart and I didn't thought of that... like you said, I'm going to be there. I wasn't going to replace it myself honestly I've never done it before.

By the way did you guys used the ruff stuff axle swap kit? I ordered some u bolt from them because I couldn't find any 13 inches U bolt (6 inches lift) around here for less than 50$ each. But I was wondering about the shock bracket. Compared to the one I have on my 7.5 the one they sell looks super small.
 
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Cut the old bracket off, clean up the cut, and reweld it to the other side of the axle.

I went to 4WheelParts (I actually am not really fond of that company's customer service though) and got a pair of spring perches for the leaf springs for $25. Some people fab their out of 2x2 box tubing, while others cut off the old perches and reweld those also to the other side. I just wanted to do it that way for me.

When you go spring over axle (SOA), you'll need to set your pinion angle. Do this while underneath the truck, and the bracketry will line up (hopefully). You could also get an idea, and use a level with the axle out of the truck. It's up to you.

You don't really need a swap kit. I don't know what that kit would entail, really. Everything you need is already on the axle. I'm using extended U-bolts from my old Ranger 3" blocks lift, and i coerced them into fitting into the Explorer leaf spring U-bolt retaining plates. Fits fine, and is straight and tight. Weld the perches & shock tabs on the opposite side of the axle once the axle is placed, and hook up the E-brake from the Explorer into the stock Ranger E-brake cable along the driver side frame rail.
 
I had brand new U-bolts bent at a spring shop for 8 bucks a piece.. and made my perches out of some 2.5x2.5 .25 wall box.
 

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