List of quality parts.

[Eddo Rogue]

@4x4junkie Maybe fourseasons did go downhill (like most other brands). After reading some not so great posts and reviews, I bought one anyways due to lack of alternatives at the time. It lasted half a summer. The next one lasted a full year but now bad again and will be replaced with (hopefully) a motorcraft unit. Around here air conditioning is used way more than heater.

 

[Bronco648]

I'm now on my fifth Ranger but have had two F-150s, five Mustangs (two GT-350s), three VWs and an Escape. So, some of this will be 'tainted' by other vehicles.

Battery: Interstate

Every Interstate battery I've had has lasted 7+ years. With the dearth of driving I do, age is more of a consideration than mileage. I also raced an F Production Austin-Healey Sprite in SCCA. That car had no charging system so the battery provided all of the power to the MSD ignition system. It never failed. That said, the last F-150 had a Walmart battery in it and it sat outside for two Chicago winters. It never failed to start the engine and temperature nor inactivity seemed to bother it.

Spark Plugs: Motorcraft

I would also trust NGK (the race car had these).

Spark Plug Wires: Motorcraft

For every Ford I've ever had, I've used nothing else. The race car had MSD wires in it to go along with the rest of the MSD system. Also, very good.

Belts/Hoses: Gates

I've never used anything else and have never had any issues.

Oil Filter: Motorcraft

I would also use Wix and/or Purolator

Air Filter: Motorcraft

Or, Wix.

Oil: Motorcraft

For anything that doesn't use synthetic or synth-blend, I'd go with Kendall. The race car's engine was my proving ground.

Brakes/Rotors/Pads: Hawk or Raybestos

The race car used Mintex.

Suspension: Moog

I still like what I get from these guys even though they're not as good as they used to be. However, I don't feel as if they've fallen off as much as other suppliers/manufacturers.

U-Joints: Dana-Spicer

I don't consider any other brand to be even close.

Bearings: NTN

Timken is a very close second. Race car tested.

Seals: National

I don't consider any other brand to be even close. Race car tested.

Tires (on road): Michelin

They're pricey but you get what you pay for. Would also consider General and BFG (esp. for off road). Hard pass on Continental.

Wiper Blades: Bosch

Nothing seems to work or last as long as they do. I replace them yearly and they seem just as good after a year as they do new.

 

[ZMan]

What brand batteries have you guys found not to suck. The "house brand" at advance and autozone are worthless piles of garbage. Back in the day diehard and interstate were awesome, not sure anymore. Optimums quality I've heard has gone to hell but last one I had was when they first came out and were freaking awesome.

Johnson Controls makes most OEM batteries, along with many of the parts store batteries. They also make SOME Everstart (Walmart) batteries. Not every Walmart carries the ones made by Johnson controls though, some are Exxide, which are not as good as the Johnson Controls made batteries. Typically a battery will say right on it who it was manufactured by. I've been trying to keep an eye out for which Walmart around here carries Johnson controls batteries, because they definitely have the best prices lol.

 

[4x4junkie]

Who made the battery very often depends on the battery size you're buying (one size of a given "brand" will come from one mfgr, another size from the same "brand" may be from another mfgr). The Walmart near me had plenty of both Johnson Controls and Exide-made Everstart batteries on their rack (I'm fairly sure I've seen East-Penn ones there too, though I won't swear to it).

I have found it's pretty easy to ID them just by their appearance:

JC batteries have two tall raised caps with three plugs underneath that sit either right on top the battery case, or on small raised sections (or pedestals) atop the case.
Example of a battery made by Johnson Controls

Exide batteries have two similar caps that are recessed into the top of the case so that they are flush with the top.
Example of an Exide battery


East-Penn batteries are typically fully flat on top with vent ports at the left & right edges.
I'm pretty sure this is an East-Penn unit, but it's slightly different-looking than past ones I'm familiar with, so I won't swear to it


Of course there are exceptions to this on some (mainly on more modern & AGM) batteries, but for flooded-type group sizes like 24, 24F, 27, 27F, 34, 51, 65, 78, and so on, it's been a pretty consistent way to ID them.