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Let's talk axle shortening...


ksack

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Jun 11, 2016
Messages
161
City
NC
Vehicle Year
1986
Engine
Transmission
Automatic
Getting my explorer 8.8 shortened to fit under my ranger drag project. We all know that the diff is offset for fuel tank clearance and quite a few people narrow the driver's side by 2 7/8" in order to run two pax side axles in it. Great, but the pinion flange on the 8.8 is not centered on the pumpkin. Did some measuring (shown below) and found that the difference is 1.25", or 0.625" offset to the pax side. So in order to get the pinion flange centered, I'll need to cut off 3.5" (2.825+0.625) to get the pinion centered (don't worry, custom axles are getting ordered). Just looking for inputs or if anyone sees something blatantly wrong. Hoping to take the housing in Monday to get cut.

Here's how I measured. Set up 2 pipe clamps (don't have a true angle to use) on either side of the diff housing. Measured to the center of the pinion from each side. Difference is 1.25"



From driver's side


From pax side
 
Controversial subject...

Many will say you want equal length axles regardless of pinion position for a couple reasons:
a. maintains some angle on driveshaft so u-joint move and needles don't brinell. (others will say that there is enough vertical distance that this isn't a real issue).
b. avoid having a shorter, stiffer axle making set up easier (we're talking serious hp racing at this point)
c. and the aesthetics folk say centered axle looks better.

Others will say pinion in center to minimize drivetrain losses and the other factors are too small to matter.

And I think you were on right track with the c-clip eliminators.
 
I wonder if there could be torque drive with unequal length shafts, similar to front wheel drive.?

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the replies. With regard to the unequal length question, the axle itself came unequal and many of the 8.8s don't have equal shaft lengths. I never thought about the slight offset to maintain some angle. Unless someone has an input as to why I really shouldn't have the pinion centered, I'm going to keep it that way. I have about a week before they get to cutting it.
 
Update. Got my axle back this week. I can't remember what they said they took off, but it was either 3 5/8 or 3 7/16 so my measurements were close and that fraction of an inch won't make a difference with the length of the driveshaft anyway. Waiting on bearings to get in so I can measure up for custom axle shafts.
 
Post some pics!!!
 
I like center dif so u can run same shaft on both sides so you have less spares to carry

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 
Almost done putting it all back together. Just need to bolt on main caps, diff cover, and bolt the axles in. Got custom shafts from Dutchman and they are awesome. C clip eliminator kits is the Ultimate 88 from Yukon, minus the axles of course. If anyone is doing something similar, feel free to PM me and I can send you specs as the bearing shoulder is not a standard measurement and they had to do some extra work with spacers to get everything sealed up properly.
 
i just pull/widen the fenders out.


unless its a 7-8 sec racecar.
 
i just pull/widen the fenders out.


unless its a 7-8 sec racecar.

The drivetrain I'm dropping in doesn't have the room to be offset so I needed the input centered. Turns out the custom shaft was too long and pushed against the pin that holds the pinion gears in. Lucky me, Dutchman makes the splines extra long so I took it to the machine shop and they lathed 1/2" off the end and it fits exactly as it should now. Happy happy happy. Just in time to move
 

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