LED tailgate bar

[RangerSVT]

If you have a bad or open ground, the device will search for a ground to complete the circuit. It will travel through a positive wire to find a ground, which makes tracing a short problematic, especially if your not familiar with electrical. Using a multimeter can help pinpoint an electrical issue, which is why I suggested testing the individual circuits. Did your factory lights work prior to installing the adapter? Check the pins in the factory connector, if they are not loose, then check the ground circuit. Check each for hit at the connector, if you have both power and ground, double check to see if the adapter is wired differently. If you don't have power in a circuit, go back to the circuit's source (brake pedal, turn signal, headlight switch, etc) if you have power there, but not at the connector, its possible you have an open circuit. I had this in my 02 sport Trac, a bad spot in the harness that I had to trace down by probing the wire every couple feet til I found it...


SVT

 

[bagged87]

flasher didn't help, and i have shaved my factory lights. this is "was" going to be the taillights....so i have to figure out what is going on. everything works correctly with the brown wire not hooked up. there has to be an issue somewhere there. i emailed the company that made the light today

 

[RangerSVT]

Have you tried testing the bar with jumper wires straight from the battery?

SVT

 

[exbass94]

The adaptor you bought is primarily for a trailer wiring harness. With a flat-4 wiring plug, you have 1 wire for just tail lights, a wire for left turn signal/brake, a wire for right turn signal/brake, and a ground. This is the standard way that ALL vehicles and trailers are wired. If the adaptor has the brake lights on the same wire as the running lights, it's a piece of crap and won't work with any trailer or light bar, and it's totally useless.

You might be best off forgetting the T harness and just use a pigtail harness and splice into the factory wiring yourself. Find a wire that's hot when the parking lights are on, find the left turn wire and the right turn wire (which should also be for your brakes too) and just run a ground to the frame.

 

[bagged87]

you know i haven't thought about the battery. i am going to try the bar on my stepdad's f150 with his trailor plug and see what happens. if it works then its my truck, if it don't it's the bar

 

[Scrambler82]

I never liked the T-Connectors, like stated above splice in the OEM harness and run wires directly to the lights.
Make sure to solder all connections and use heat shrink, the clip-on connectors WILL give you trouble.

As stated, if the original vehicle has directionals and brakes on the same filament then there will be four wires, parking, 2-brake/dir and ground.

Most LED setups have two wires and one is a ground so this light is the same there is a ground wire in there somewhere.

Also, if you intend to use this light for your tail lights after the shaving, what about the backup lights ? Some of these strips have white lighting but I hear nothing about the wiring.

Luck...

 

[bagged87]

it has reverse lights..it is a single wire for that. my truck has the four wires. the factory plug has 5 wires rh turn, lh turn, parking, reverse, and ground. i think the truck is wrong because like i stated on the other page, the brown wire lights up with the test light for the brake and parking lights

 

[Scrambler82]

it has reverse lights..it is a single wire for that. my truck has the four wires. the factory plug has 5 wires rh turn, lh turn, parking, reverse, and ground. i think the truck is wrong because like i stated on the other page, the brown wire lights up with the test light for the brake and parking lights

Just me but… if your harness is in good condition and all of your lighting is working the way it should, ring it out and mark the wiring, color withstanding.
Then cut the wires, extend as needed and attach to the light.
Sometimes the wiring gets screwed up at the factory and you never know until something like this happens but again if your truck has had no problems, then what ever the colors are they are, even if different than the next truck.

Make notes and mark the wiring, use solder and adhesive heat shrink.
I suggest the soldering of all connections, once tested and proven, because it is the only way to make a long lasting connections and the Heat Shrink with adhesive inside is the only way to keep it from corroding.

 

[bagged87]

well...i'm an idiot, i should have read more of the negative feedback. seems that the bar is the reason and i'm not the only one that had that issue. now is the issue of getting them to contact me back but looks like i found a rampage on streetsideauto.com......keep ya posted