Leaking Brakes

[Twister]

Well...no...

It almost looks like you have a 9" drum on a 10" brake setup...judging by the way the drum outer edge seems to line up with the backing plate inner edge...

The drum should actually go over the backing plate edge...at least that's the way mine are and always have been on any vehicle I've ever owned with drum brakes...even my Zuki Sidekick was like that...

A gap like that allows all kinds of stuff to enter into the brake area...I think you have 10" rear brakes...or the simply the wrong drums.

Well there is a smaller lip that jets out where the visiable lip in the pic stops that lip is very close to the backing plate.

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[jkent]

That is one of the worst suggestions I have ever heard. The shoes will need replaced. Once they are saturated to that level they cannot be made safe again. The fluid can be gotten out, but it will dry the friction material out so badly that they will crack right away.

I just did both rear wheel cylinders along with lines and hardware in my 8.8 and didn't replace the shoes or drums. All I did was take my time and clean everything and put it back together. Brakes work great and haven't had any problems so far. I don't know how bad his shoes were but what I advised has worked fine for me.

 

[Tedybear]

Well...no...

It almost looks like you have a 9" drum on a 10" brake setup...judging by the way the drum outer edge seems to line up with the backing plate inner edge...

The drum should actually go over the backing plate edge...at least that's the way mine are and always have been on any vehicle I've ever owned with drum brakes...even my Zuki Sidekick was like that...

A gap like that allows all kinds of stuff to enter into the brake area...I think you have 10" rear brakes...or the simply the wrong drums.

Mine are the same way. The steel 'lip' goes into the brake backing plate and almost bottoms against it and keeps the crud out. You can see it in the photo. If the drum is against the axle hub and seated? It's correct.

sidebar edit: It's a darn good optical illusion that looks like it's not right...but it is.

S-

 

[Twister]

Mine are the same way. The steel 'lip' goes into the brake backing plate and almost bottoms against it and keeps the crud out. You can see it in the photo. If the drum is against the axle hub and seated? It's correct.

sidebar edit: It's a darn good optical illusion that looks like it's not right...but it is.

S-

The drum is fully seated against the hub. There is no physical way for it to go on any further. I bled the new cylinder and the brakes and my braking has returned to normal if not better.

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[Mark_88]

Well there is a smaller lip that jets out where the visiable lip in the pic stops that lip is very close to the backing plate.

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Well, if you say so...I couldn't see it from that angle in the pic and it looks like there is too much gap...I was tempted to take a picture of my drums and how they fit right over the backing plate but it would mean pulling one of my tires off and I'm just too tired for that right now...

Maybe tomorrow, just as an example...and someone will probably look at mine and say "Whoa, that's just wrong"...lol

 

[Twister]

Well I've but about 40 miles on it and everything seems to be working right, except I lost turn signals today lol. If its not one thing, its another :sly:

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[85_Ranger4x4]

The drums are supposed to go all the way to the backing plate...mine actually exceed the backing plate by about an 1/8" or so...

IIRC the gap is ok. There is a lip on the drum that goes inside the backing plate, you can see on Twisters it is.

 

[Mark_88]

IIRC the gap is ok. There is a lip on the drum that goes inside the backing plate, you can see on Twisters it is.

Yeah, I can see it but it still looks weird...maybe I have a different drum...mine came off an early Aerostar and, apparently, are the 10" finned drum...that are not supposed to exist because they are all 9" drums after 93 or so...but they go over the backing plate and do not have that same lip...