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Just what I needed


I have a 1" drive, 1500ft# impact wrench and it easily removes those, and the radius arm bolt/studs as well. It takes a 7hp/60gallon compresser with 1/2" hose and no couplings to reduce any of the flow to even operate this thing--and it weighs 40#. But it is something the natives would set on an alter and pile yams around. I paid $99 at a traveling tool tent for it. You need a 28mm socket though. The 1 1/8" doesn't fit tightly enough and it will fawk it up. This baby is a portable earthquake--it's gentle though. Lub-lub-lub-lub-lub and it's off.

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We had one of those in the diesel shop at school. Perfect for removing stubborn head and main cap bolts from a Big Cam Cummins :icon_hornsup:
 
drill or cut the head off and then drill the rest out and use a tap to clean out the threads.
 
umm yeah just dont use a torque wrech for some reason craftsman doesnt like replacing shit thats been used for breaker bars that isnt a breaker bar, and peeing on it would work because of the acids thats in ur piss, haha why is their so many danger rangers
 
Dang Will, that thing looks awesome. Mind bringing it by my house??

Anyway, I was just at Sears and very disappointed in the breaker bar selection. Only up to 18"!! and they tell me a cheater pipe is "abuse" and not covered by warrantee. Then maybe you should make a breaker bar longer than 18"!!!!! They have ratchets and torque wrenches way longer, but no breaker bar. And C Note, I am pretty close to just cutting off the head and driving it out.
 
If you break one with a pipe just don't them them how it happened, I haven't been asked a question yet returning busted stuff.
 
slide a rubber hose over the bar so the cheater dosen't scar the chrome on the breaker. easeir to return that way.
 
I have about a 5-foot pipe with an ID than my breaker bar list fits in. I put the socket on the nut and the bar on the socket through the coils and crank away. Never fails. Make sure you're not using any extensions between the breaker bar and the socket in order to put as much force on it as you can.
 
I can't fit my socket through the coil. I have a 2wd so I've been trying to crank on the bolt from the bottom. Defenitely no extensions. Should I pop the coil out of the top to drop the socket in to crank on the nut? I FINALLY got the shock bolt out. I hate the rust belt.
 
Yep. I did mine on the 89 when it was wrecked. Soaked them with something called Zep 45, hey its free at work.

Put a long craftsman extension on it. Rested the 1/2" ratchet on the fender and put a 3' section of pipe on it.

Bada bing, baba BANNG! and it snapped loose. Maybe I was lucky.
 
put a boxed wrench on it and a pipe. apply torch first ,it will come off
 
I'll disagree with Jim on this one -- use an extension.

The reason is that you don't have to fit the breaker bar between the coils that way. Run it right out the top of the spring tower.

A 3/8 extension will break. Use 1/2 inch, at least.

I've done this with my 3/4 inch ratchet (I got it cheap from Harbor Freight as part of an incomplete set -- $20) and my 4+ foot cheater pipe.

Use Kroil. WD-40 isn't useful for anything. And as for peeing on something to dissolve rust, sure it's got (weak) acids. So does Coke. But you might as well use CHEAP true phosphoric acid, rather than making your truck sticky and/or smell like a bad bar in Ensenada.
 
Going in from the top of coil worked well. Turns out the bolt won't turn from the bottom because of another nut holding it underneath the coil. Oh well, live and learn. Finally got it off.
 
get a craftsman breaker bar. I broke two Napa breaker bars, got them warranteed, and bought a craftsman.
 
A 1/2" drive set is for watch repair. Those swiveling breaker bars are weak too. I've found my ratchet is stronger--because I always bust them and end up using the same pipe on my ratchet--and I've only recently busted that. I'd say 3 swivel bars = one good ratchet.

This is the kind to have--one where the bar goes through a hole in the head sort of like this picture. I had one like this and it never broke. I really prefer the impact though--usually the small 1/2" drive one. It is gentler at taking things apart than a 4' pipe with 200# of force bouning on it.

12906_tools8.jpg
 
we did this last weekend and we had to use a 3/4" breaker, 6' cheater, and two of us pulling with all our might...... PB blast is me lover.
 

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