Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and - Joined
- Jul 31, 2025
- Messages
- 13
- Points
- 101
- City
- St Paul
- State - Country
- MN - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1999
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 2WD
- Engine
- 2.5 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Manual
- Tire Size
- 215/75R 15
Hey gang, back on the forum after moving and other drama
99 Ranger has an issue where heat works when truck is cold, but might just stop, after turned off then back on, and/or might just not come on at all.
It had a leaking radiator when I purchased it, and the P.O.(prev owner) was running straight tap water(ugh), and the spaghetti junction heat valve was cracked(double ugh),
R & R
Radiator (4 yrs ago?)
Heater valve (4 yrs ago?) Motorcraft from NAPA
flushed cooling system twice(on last flush, also back flushed the heater core)
Water pump (2 yrs ago)
T-stat/housing/sensors (2 yrs ago)
Some have suggested check the vacuum line running to the heat valve, which is fine(as are other vacuum lines), the only confusion is where the rubber hose joins a white poly line running to a mystery area below the AC condenser(?) box near the P(pass) side firewall.
I am tempted to by pass the entire system, but worried it will create a problem if I (ever get around to) fix the ac coolant pressure leak.
Wondering if either the HVAC switch, or something up with valve operation might cause this 1 in 10 time failure (its either ON or OFF)
99 Ranger has an issue where heat works when truck is cold, but might just stop, after turned off then back on, and/or might just not come on at all.
It had a leaking radiator when I purchased it, and the P.O.(prev owner) was running straight tap water(ugh), and the spaghetti junction heat valve was cracked(double ugh),
R & R
Radiator (4 yrs ago?)
Heater valve (4 yrs ago?) Motorcraft from NAPA
flushed cooling system twice(on last flush, also back flushed the heater core)
Water pump (2 yrs ago)
T-stat/housing/sensors (2 yrs ago)
Some have suggested check the vacuum line running to the heat valve, which is fine(as are other vacuum lines), the only confusion is where the rubber hose joins a white poly line running to a mystery area below the AC condenser(?) box near the P(pass) side firewall.
I am tempted to by pass the entire system, but worried it will create a problem if I (ever get around to) fix the ac coolant pressure leak.
Wondering if either the HVAC switch, or something up with valve operation might cause this 1 in 10 time failure (its either ON or OFF)
