Input shaft seal, how do I get to it?

[pjtoledo]

Well I used the 2 nut method and got all but one out. She is stuck something fierce. No matter how tight I jam the nuts, the both turn left and if I hold the outer nut with a ratchet, shit dont budge. Tried some map gas heat, nothing. Need more leverage I think

then try 4 nuts, if there is room. get them as close to the bottom as possible.
use 2 wrenches, on opposite sides so the torque is balanced.

another trick that sometimes works is to hit another corner of the part in an attempt to cause some rotation about the bolt.
do that while applying torque. don't get too crazy, the parts probably have machined & interlocking mating surfaces.

 

[Uncle Gump]

These are the extractors I used in my VW shop. Lots of 8 and 10mm studs to remove and install.

They're not perfect and will damage the stud threads if they're hard to get out.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You could also try beating on it with a hammer...
For real.
Hit the end of the stud. Use a nut to protect the threads. A couple if sharp raps can shock the rust-weld enough to break the bond.

 

[Josh B]

Well I used the 2 nut method and got all but one out. She is stuck something fierce. No matter how tight I jam the nuts, the both turn left and if I hold the outer nut with a ratchet, shit dont budge. Tried some map gas heat, nothing. Need more leverage I think

You can also use more than two nuts(3 is generaly enough to make em lock), use two wrenches and get them all snugged in tight from the middle out, last snug on the two outermost

 

[Josh B]

I didn't know pjtoledo had posted that before adding mine, or the hammer bits.

One good place to jar it in that way would be onto the side of the flange as you try to break the stud loose.
I don't think I'd hit that right on the stud barrel portion tho, but directly on the flange beside it.
Get the hammer ready and just as you reach the most torque you can achieve agin the stud, jar that flange with a good sharp wallop

I just looked back at you photo, I think that's aluminum, not sure how much hammering I'd do on that anyway, maybe others have more experience with hammering on it, I'm mostly used the hammer jarring on steel and cast iron

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've seen on the real stubborn ones that when the double nut turns and the stud doesn't... it distorts the threads also. I would certainly run a thread chaser down the threads before reusing the stud.

Heat up and rapid cooling cycles with penetrating lube mixed with some hammer action as floored said... hammer the stud with a nut protecting the threads. It would also help to have a helper to hold the torch... hammer the stud... hold the trans... etc.

Also if the jamb nuts keep turning on the stud... get an extractor. I'm not sure what the one adsm posted is... but grip it on the lowest portion of the threads as possible. Just be careful not to break it. Clean up the threads when it's out... or find a new stud.

I do think persistence will win this battle...

 

[ecgreen]

Use this style stud remover, it will engage the threads and not damaged them.

This was the winner, took seconds - although I think the 4 nut approach would have worked well.

So I got the plate off:

If anyone is following this thread in order to learn how to do this, be careful as there is a spacer ring that goes on the plate and could easily get lost:

I think its safe to say that the old seal is the problem, it crumbled when I took it out:

 

[Uncle Gump]

I might have to get one of those...

Glad it came out without a huge fight.

 

[ecgreen]

Questions for the gurus:

- RTV or do I buy gaskets (I am doing the bottom pan as well - so I could get a kit)?
- Whats the best way to get the studs back in?
- Where can I find torque values?

 

[ecgreen]

anerobic sealant for the plate. it does not need air to cure.
do not use a gasket on the front plate.

Whats your thoughts on the bottom plate and the transfer case to tranny connection? Gaskets or sealant?

 

[pjtoledo]

I'll let some bigger experts than me answer for the bottom plate and transfer case.
in the meantime here is the info on anaerobic sealants, which are commonly used to join tranny case halves.


edited for correction. transman304 pointed out there is a gasket at the front plate.
I'll plead guilty to not looking at the parts diagram.

Permatex® Anaerobic Flange Sealant

Flexible, gasketing material for use on rigid machined flanges with less than .015" gap. OEM approved use where OEs specify “anaerobic” gasket (cures in the absence of air). Withstands temperatures to 300°F (149°C). Eliminates preformed, pre-cut, paper, rubber and cork gaskets. Flexes with...

www.permatex.com

 

[ecgreen]

I'll let some bigger experts than me answer for the bottom plate and transfer case.
in the meantime here is the info on anaerobic sealants, which are commonly used to join tranny case halves.

Permatex® Anaerobic Flange Sealant

Flexible, gasketing material for use on rigid machined flanges with less than .015" gap. OEM approved use where OEs specify “anaerobic” gasket (cures in the absence of air). Withstands temperatures to 300°F (149°C). Eliminates preformed, pre-cut, paper, rubber and cork gaskets. Flexes with...

www.permatex.com

Whats the difference between that and this:

Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker

OEM specified. Noncorrosive gasketing material designed primarily for use on aluminum, iron, and steel flanged mating surfaces. Ideal for on-the-spot and emergency repairs, or when a conventional gasket is unavailable. Fills gaps up to .015" and cures to a solvent-resistant seal that will not...

www.permatex.com

 

[Josh B]

I prefer the red high-temp

 

[pjtoledo]

Whats the difference between that and this:

Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker

OEM specified. Noncorrosive gasketing material designed primarily for use on aluminum, iron, and steel flanged mating surfaces. Ideal for on-the-spot and emergency repairs, or when a conventional gasket is unavailable. Fills gaps up to .015" and cures to a solvent-resistant seal that will not...

www.permatex.com

good question. according to the description and instructions they are quite similar.

the guys I knew used the gasket maker on Taurus manual transaxles with good results.

the stuff does have a shelf life, check date when purchasing.

 

[adsm08]

The flange sealer and gasket maker are similar, but different.

The big difference is in the final cured product. The flange sealer will turn into a rigid, hard material that has to be heated to be removed, or the pieces joined with it can break during disassembly, particularly if one is aluminum. The gasket maker stays more pliable, never really gets dry.

The flange sealer is used on the Ecoboost 4-bangers with the multi-piece valve covers. It's used to seal the metal piece that the HP fuel pump bolts to, and the mechanical vacuum pump to the head. It gets hard and brittle.

The gasket maker is used on the DPS6 transmission case halves and even though they never really leak, the stuff stays tacky. I've never had to heat one to get the case pried apart, and I've never broken one.