Input for rear driveshaft sticky needed

[Jim Oaks]

I want to make a sticky here for people looking to replace the rear diveshafts on their Bronco II's, especially after lifting them.

Can you guys post recommendations and photos so I can get a sticky put together with some good info?

 

[4x4junkie]

Here's some info on this I had collected awhile back:

A front driveshaft from a '91-'94 Explorer or '91-'97 Ranger (w/D35) swaps real nicely into the rear of a Bronco II. It's a double-cardan CV (3-u-joint) design using 1310-series joints which is best to have if the truck is lifted.
It's a bolt-in swap if your BII has the FM145 or a TK5 transmission. You will need the front output yoke off of a 1354 T-case to replace your BII's rear T-case flange/yoke with, and you'll also need a flange to mate it up with the axle's pinion flange (Spicer pt# 2-2-939 - this can be sourced from the T-case end of any '91-'97 Ranger 4WD rear driveshaft, except Reg-Cab shortbed models).

Alternatively, you can replace the driveshaft's CV socket-yoke for a socket-flange (Spicer pt# 211229X) which will allow it to mate up to a stock T-case flange (this is the method I used, though may run a bit more $$$ unless you can find a source for a used socket-flange).

For FM146/M5OD/A4LD-equipped BIIs, the driveshaft will need to be shortened 2 inches, but otherwise it installs as explained above.

Also useful:
If you are swapping in a 8.8" rear axle at the same time, use the flange off the axle end of the above-mentioned Ranger rear driveshaft (Spicer pt# 2-2-1379 - fits the 8.8" pinion flange w/4¼" bolt circle).



James Duff also has commercially available new bolt-in double-cardan shafts:
JD pt#3830 (short, for FM146/M5OD/A4LD
JD pt#3831 (long, for FM145/TK5)
(from this page)



Hope that helps.

 

[country0001]

I did that write up in the tech library submission area. I took the double cardan off and my truck is lifted 4 inches

 

[country0001]

Original Poster:
country0001
Difficulty: 2 out of 10

Time to install: 3 hours


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.


Brief Explanation: I recently dicovered that a 1354 front driveshaft looked a lot like one of my B2 driveshafts. So I measured them out, and they were the same.After my wreck , which destroyed my extra driveshaft, I decided to build a new one. Thanks to Ranger SVT and Asdm for having the parts that I needed and SVT for extra advice.



Tools Needed:
Grinder
Hammer
Punch
Needle nose pliers
12mm 12 point socket

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Parts Needed: 1310/1330 u joint
1354 front drive shaft
2-2.75" yoke flanges, Can use 3", depends on application.

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Steps 1ull CV shaft.

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Steps 2:Locate 1354 shaft and remove double cardan.

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Steps 3:Cut or grind the center section out evenly so it will accept the u joint.

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Install the U joints and the yoke flanges

Install in truck. These are the 2.75" bolt spacing, some can use the 3" spacing.

Its been a great little driveshaft. I'm even running it with F150 springs in back.
If you were to go to the JY and buy these pieces seperately. It would cost around 150 dollars

 

[4x4junkie]

^^

What is the purpose of cutting up the double-cardan joint like that? Why not just use it like it is?

Edit:
Is this so you don't have to shorten the tube? I think I'd rather pay the ~$60 bucks or whatever it costs to have a shop shorten the shaft just to have the DC joint on it.

It's fairly easy to do yourself even, just make sure the spline end is put back in straight as possible.
Grind out the weld, remove the spline, cut 2" out of the tube, press spline back in.
Before welding, I laid the shaft within a piece of angle iron and slowly rotated it looking for any wobble, tapping the end lightly to straighten if needed. Once satisfied it was straight, I tack-welded it, rechecked for wobble, then fully welded 'er up.
Finally have a shop balance it ($20-30 IIRC)

 

[country0001]

I just copied the other one that I had.

All I can say is it works.

 

[Totalled]

(I think the C5 is the same length as well, but don't hold me to it).

C5 is shorter, it's TK4 length. If you have a C5 or TK4 rig, it's an 84 and has the cute little 1210 series cardan shaft.

 

[4x4junkie]

C5 is shorter, it's TK4 length. If you have a C5 or TK4 rig, it's an 84 and has the cute little 1210 series cardan shaft.

Thanks for the correction.