Infamous 4.0 tick getting gradually worse, should I be worried?

[Eddo Rogue]

well, run the valvoline protect and restore...though i dont know if its available in 10/30.

i run the high mile supertech in the 4.0. but it will tick sooner or later.

rockers and pushrods from there....provided the valve seats are not stomped out.

I been running the motorcraft synthetic blend. I'm at about 94k original miles.

 

[bobbywalter]

I been running the motorcraft synthetic blend. I'm at about 94k original miles.

maybe go to the high miles with the better additive package, but if its not sticky lifters, but simply worn pushrods and rockers....

well, maybe someone will come up with rocker arm in a bottle

 

[sgtsandman]

Mobil 1 and K&N make a good filter as well. The K&N can be a bit pricey though. That is a filter you get with an oil change package. The local auto parts stores here offer them with packages from time to time.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Mobil 1 and K&N make a good filter as well. The K&N can be a bit pricey though. That is a filter you get with an oil change package. The local auto parts stores here offer them with packages from time to time.

I've ran both before. I run the K&N on my motorbikes...the nut on the end comes in handy.

I've actually got mobil 1 filters for my F159 and fusion. They both need oil changes. I run mobil 1 oil in the F150. I think it's actually ford recommended.

 

[bobbywalter]

yup. all good stuff.

 

[Mechrick]

Also it goes away and comes back

You have roller lifters that do not spin in the lifter bores, but the pushrods and valves will spin. A tick that comes and goes is usually a worn component (pushrod, rocker, valve tip) that spins and the clearance changes as it does.

The 4.0L is known for wearing pushrods and rocker arms.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

What am I in for if I were to swap the pushrods and rocker arms? Does it require pulling the intake or heads? Would I be able to find quality parts relatively easily?

It's my baby. I'm still learning to be a good ranger parent.

 

[gaz]

@Eddo Rogue
You have a few options:
1) buy new (they don't need to be Ford OEM) rockers and pushrods and install them. May not be perfect but it will run:
• Sealed Power, Manley...
• the pushrods are a couple dollars less than the custom set as are the OEM rockers just a few dollars less than the reenforced sets.
2) buy new reenforced rockers and measure what size pushrods your engine needs, then purchase a custom set of pushrods to compliment your engine specific:
• hardened rockers from, Delta Camshaft of Tacoma Washington (the only place on Earth to buy them)
• custom length pushrods from Smith Brothers, about $150 plus S/H
3) custom adjustable pushrods, a few $ more than the custom set (also available from Smith Brothers) OR adjustable rockers, take a set of 2.9l rockers along with your 4.0l rocker arms and pedestals your machinists, 6 will require a little material milled from the rockers on one side. After that you have fully adjustable valve train!!

With reconditioned heads the valve seats may been redone (valve job) which may change the length of pushed required for appropriate hydraulic lifter preload; solution is to measure what length pushrods this build requires.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

@Eddo Rogue
You have a few options:
1) buy new (they don't need to be Ford OEM) rockers and pushrods and install them. May not be perfect but it will run:
• Sealed Power, Manley...
• the pushrods are a couple dollars less than the custom set as are the OEM rockers just a few dollars less than the reenforced sets.
2) buy new reenforced rockers and measure what size pushrods your engine needs, then purchase a custom set of pushrods to compliment your engine specific:
• hardened rockers from, Delta Camshaft of Tacoma Washington (the only place on Earth to buy them)
• custom length pushrods from Smith Brothers, about $150 plus S/H
3) custom adjustable pushrods, a few $ more than the custom set (also available from Smith Brothers) OR adjustable rockers, take a set of 2.9l rockers along with your 4.0l rocker arms and pedestals your machinists, 6 will require a little material milled from the rockers on one side. After that you have fully adjustable valve train!!

With reconditioned heads the valve seats may been redone (valve job) which may change the length of pushed required for appropriate hydraulic lifter preload; solution is to measure what length pushrods this build requires.

So you're saying either way I gotta pull the heads for a valve job to do this?

Heads are original and I don't think they're cracked....no white smoke or coolant loss since I did the lower intake gasket.

Anyways if I do pull the heads and do this, what would be the best of the options you listed? By best I mean I won't have to do it again, and if performance gain or cost is not a concern.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I got rislone. And some other stuff....

The Sylvania light was on sale. $49.99 for 3100 lumens and 2 year warranty. Plus the size is right...compact.

The radio head unit was also marked down to $43.99...it's gonna be nice to have tunes in the ranger again, instead of listening to loose change in the door pockets rattle.

They had a bunch of engine treatment stuff...some fancy multi bottled packaging too.....never noticed how many there are.

Fingerless gloves are my new thing. These have a good knuckle buster guard...$14.99 worth a try.

I got two oil filters for the ranger...noticed the k&n is taller than mobil1.

I got oil options but will probably run the motorcraft synthetic blend again.

The bling bling valve caps I have no comment.

 

[4.0blue98]

At 220k I just turn the volume up on the radio. If it blows up I'll call AAA and find a 302.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

At 220k I just turn the volume up on the radio. If it blows up I'll call AAA and find a 302.

Well hence I bought a radio along w/ the rislone.

 

[gaz]

@Eddo Rogue
To change out the push rods and rockers, all you need to do is remove the valve covers and the rocker arm assembly(s).

If you want a valve job performed on the heads, then yes, that will require their removal.

 

[gaz]

@Eddo Rogue
In regards to "which option will yield the longest lasting results":
1) either of the adjustable valve train solutions listed will ensure the lowest maintenance
2) having an adjustable valve train will afford the option to simply adjust the valve train every 30k miles, verses replacing the worn, non-adjustable components at the same interval.

Again, the heads do NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED to change or adjust the rockers, rocker arms or push rods, just the valve covers.

 

[broncc]

As much as I hate mechanic-in-a-bottle. I will begrudgingly admit that Marvel Mystery Oil has quieted lifters in 3/3 cars I have tested it in.

As an aside, its absurd how much lifters cost for these motors!