important read for anyone owning ANY non roller engine!!!

[blue83ranger]

My brother sent me this link a few days ago. I heard about them doing something to oil that's not good for older stuff but didn't pay much attention to it. Definately sucks. here's the link. http://www.zddplus.com/

 

[predator]

dude....if this isnt making huge news in auto and truck mags then im just going to file that link under my "snake oil" file......

 

[klogtruck]

<<< B/S i think

 

[Mac]

A lot of the car magazines have had articles on the lack of zinc in the new oils and the problems when using it in non-roller cars. Said it was only inportant to use a high zinc content oil for the first 5000 miles. Most racing oils still have the higher zinc levels.
Dave

 

[JohnnyO]

If you look at the MSDS for different oils you will get the zinc level, but it is true that the govt has mandated less zinc in gasoline motor oil because if an engine is burning oil the zinc will contaminate the catalytic convertor.
High-mileage motor oils have a little more zinc than regular oil.
The easy way to protect an older engine is to simply run diesel motor oil in it. Most diesel oil is 15w-40 but the Wal-Mart near me is now carrying a lot of Rotella 10w-30.

 

[projectnitemare]

Order a new flat tappet cam once. It will give you a little run down about this. Really it's nothing major but I know Comp will suggest using RotellaT 10-30 or 15-40 for initial break in. I use Rotella in my stroker all the time.

Matt

 

[MAKG]

It's nothing new.

Problematic oils have a "for gasoline engines" starburst on them. Most -- but not all -- C-rated (Diesel) oils do not have this. It may be annoying, but most light Mobil-1 oils fall into the "problematic" category.

Having said that, I've run Mobil-1 10W-30 in my Prizm for about 150,000 miles. It's a direct acting OHC with no rollers. Valve lash is still well within spec.

 

[freebird]

This really applies to engine break in period as previously stated. At my shop We restore muscle car engines and build them for race cars too(drag, dirt, offroad and asphalt.) Many of them are vire high output engines. If you use an oil lacking zinc it will wipe out your camshaft in notime. We mandate that all our engines built run Joe Gibbs break in oil for 5000 miles or Shell Rotella T oil for 8000. With changes every 2000. Its a serious thing for motors that arent broken in. We started having customers come back screaming at us 'YOU EFFD UP MY MOTOR BLAH BLAH BLAH" so we did some research and found out that without notice, oil companies cut back zinc levels which are crucial for camshaft break in.(due to the gov't regulations) SO now every customer that leaves our shop usually walkes out with some Joe Gibbs or Some Rotella T(which i believe is a diesel oil). This information surfaced about 8 months ago to my knowladge, But some recent tests prove that its only harmful to brand new components during their break in periods. After the stuff is good and broken in, we recommend running a nice synthetic such as royal purple.


PS we even recommend it for the roller motors that leave our shop as well, as a precautionary measure.



thats enough proof for me

 

[LearjetMinako]

My engines should be in the clear. Since the 2.3L Ranger has a roller cam and my KLX250s is using an motocycle grade.

But there is truth behind the lack of Zinc. Its required in my 2006 KLX and with out, my direct bucket cams would be flattened. Ford's new Duratech 2.0/2.3L are direct bucket cams. And after so many miles (50k +), they start ticking.

My last 3th oil reports are as followed: PPM, Royal Purple 5w30 API-SL Grade
Zinc: 972 1013 978
Phosphorus: 783 874 824