I'm sure I got a short.

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Okay finished the video and it does help me to understand why I'm getting power when I thought I should not.
Phone battery is at 10% so I will post more once I get plugged in to my charger.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Finally got my phone charged up to 20% so I feel I can now get back on and write.
I wrote earlier:
I have tested my Crankshaft position sensor. By unhooking it
And my coil pack.
I want to clarify that now.
I meant to write I have tested my Crankshaft position sensor by taking it off the truck and while I held it my brother put each end of his multimeter probs onto each of the tabs on the sensor.
Once he had good contact with his multimeter and it had a steady reading, I then waved a 3/8 drive 5/8 socket on a 6 inch extension by the sensor.
The reading then fluctuated.
So to my understanding that means the sensor is good.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I took bought a new coil and put on after I tested it with the multimeter as well.

At that point I Focused my attention on the I.C.M. or EDIS-6.
I found out that it does not get power to it when the negative cable is hooked up to the negative post on the battery.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

As of now it's 9:22 p.m. my time. It's raining and dark.
I'm going to start fresh tomorrow by doing what Curious Hound say I should do earlier.
I'm going to plug everything back in and start from the beginning.
That's not having any fire/spark at the plugs.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'd like to ask a simple question...

What is the truck doing... or not doing that has you doing this testing.

I'd assume it won't start... but I'd rather have you take a deep breath and tell us.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Oh... you posted that just as I was asking.

Clear your head of today... have a fresh look in the morning.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Your right Uncle Gump it's not starting.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

One other thing is I can't find any camshaft position sensor either.
I have a scope camera with it's own screen and have looked where everyone has told me it should be and can't find it.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I read a post a few days ago that said that means my truck is a federal emissions truck and not a California emissions truck. However now I can't find that post again.
Can this be right?
Can my truck even run without a Camshaft position sensor?

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Is there anyway I can find out for sure what my truck really is.
Even the fact that the sticker in the door jam says my truck was built 11/93 and the title says it is a 94 throws me off.
I'm truly confused.

 

[bobbywalter]

I read a post a few days ago that said that means my truck is a federal emissions truck and not a California emissions truck. However now I can't find that post again.
Can this be right?
Can my truck even run without a Camshaft position sensor?

yes it can.


even if it needs it....it can run without it...just not right.


sooo.

the fuel pump still primes?

 

[bobbywalter]

you need to do a continuity test on the power wire from the eec relay to the icm...

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

To be honest I've only heard the fuel pump come once. That was about 4 days ago.
But I've been so focused on getting fire/spark I've not been paying that much attention to if the fuel pump primes or not.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I have no idea on how to do that Bobby. Hell I don't even know what eec stands for.

 

[bobbywalter]

well. its not hard.

eec is electronic engine control .....what ford calls the engine computer.

what happens is when you turn the key on it sends crank and run power from the battery through the key switch on out through a diode in the fuse box under the hood.....(which is a one way check valve for electricity).....

it then goes to the eec relay and activates it.

usually there is the main feed to the rest of the system and power to the ignition module on downline side of the relay....these are usually red. there are two wires in one connector and this can fail. or corrode and if the icm power fell off....there is your short.



the eec relay should be black....but you never know till you look...cause shit gets changed.


there is a tan wire(trigger wire from key switch)

and a fat bastard yellow wire....which is always hot as long as the fuse is good.......

should be two red wires tied together which power the ignition modules and the rest of the party ......the injectors....fuel pump relay trigger power side...the various sensors ect.........

and a black/white stripe wire that is the eec relay switching ground....