Ignition switch keeps failing

[Fordmikeyranger87]

Got a 87 ranger 2.9 v6 and Looking for some help on why my ignition switch keeps going bad. I’ve had to replace it 3 times in the last month. First time it happened truck started up fine and then I turned it off cause I forgot something in the house, came back out and got nothing, dome and dash lights came on. Replaced and it and it fired up and was good for a week. Second time I left town for the weekend and went to start In The morning on Monday and again ignition switch went bad. And it just kinda been like that. 3rd one lasted for a week and now having to replace again. pigtail is in good condition and all wires in the harness look good. I’ll turn key and hear fuel pump come on and dash lights come on as usual and as soon as I turn key to start it’s just like a faint single popping sound and no crank. Finally have some time to look into the problem just don’t know where to look. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

[Curious Hound]

First thing would be to firgure out which set of contacts (which circuit) is failing. There are several sets of cintacts in that switch that do different things.

 

[RobbieD]

The switch's mounting holes allow for a small amount of adjustment. Loosen the two bolts, pull the switch toward the key cylinder, and then tighten it down and see if that corrects your problem.

The original mounting bolts are kind of cheesy; if they don't keep the switch tight, it can get pushed away from the cylinder far enough so that the start contacts aren't made.

 

[Curious Hound]

It might be wise to explain what you mean when you say it keeps "blowing". When I hear that, it makes me think you are melting or burning a set of contacts.

If it just stops making contact from being out of position like RobbieD mentioned, there is no reason to replace the switch.

 

[Jazzer]

On my same year truck as yours, I went through a series of factory defective ignition switches. The problem was the crimps that held it together would loosen every 6-10 starts. I finally got one that remained whole.

Remove the lower column shroud (two screws underneath) and the upper shroud and check for a cracked open switch.

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

The switch's mounting holes allow for a small amount of adjustment. Loosen the two bolts, pull the switch toward the key cylinder, and then tighten it down and see if that corrects your problem.

The original mounting bolts are kind of cheesy; if they don't keep the switch tight, it can get pushed away from the cylinder far enough so that the start contacts aren't made.

The switch's mounting holes allow for a small amount of adjustment. Loosen the two bolts, pull the switch toward the key cylinder, and then tighten it down and see if that corrects your problem.

The original mounting bolts are kind of cheesy; if they don't keep the switch tight, it can get pushed away from the cylinder far enough so that the start contacts aren't made.

Thank you for that info, did not know that! I’ll take a look later today.

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

It might be wise to explain what you mean when you say it keeps "blowing". When I hear that, it makes me think you are melting or burning a set of contacts.

If it just stops making contact from being out of position like RobbieD mentioned, there is no reason to replace the switch.

Sorry I guess blown might not be the right term, to me it just seemed like the switches were maybe frying or something causing it to not start and then a new one get it started but after a week would do the same thing again. no contacts are burning and pigtail is in good condition and all wires in the harness look good. I’ll turn key and hear fuel pump come on and dash lights come on as usual and as soon as I turn key to start it’s just like a faint single popping sound and no crank.

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

On my same year truck as yours, I went through a series of factory defective ignition switches. The problem was the crimps that held it together would loosen every 6-10 starts. I finally got one that remained whole.

Remove the lower column shroud (two screws underneath) and the upper shroud and check for a cracked open switch.

Damn, so you just ended up going through until one kept working? I’ve already gone through 1 standard brand and 2 Motorcraft switches.

 

[Fordmikeyranger87]

Pulled the switch as much as possible to the key cylinder and tightened bolts and still got no crank. Tried this on all 3 switches I have purchased.

Is there a way to test ignition switch with a multimeter to see if it’s good or bad? And could the key cylinder have anything to do with this problem? Thanks

 

[Curious Hound]

With the ignition switch off the column, but electrically connected, you can push the plunger and make it do its thing. The key cylinder just pushes a rod that pushes the plunger on the switch. It should spring return.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve seen the push rod break before but that caused a no-shut-off situation and was in a later tilt column (96).

Unfortunately there’s a lot of fake parts and junk parts on the market these days including brand names like Motorcraft. Makes it really difficult sometimes to sort out a problem.

Some places will let you warranty stuff that isn’t working right, but you do have the right idea of wanting to see if something else might be causing the problem. I would check the rest of the starting circuit. Which would be the wiring to the starter solenoid, the solenoid, the starter wires, and the starter. Check for corrosion and a bad ground. Personally, I’d consider replacing the starter solenoid just because, but technically it can be tested for function.