2.3L ('83-'97) ICM or coil packs

[Legalin49]

1990 Ford Ranger 4cylinder 2.3L
Sometimes foot to the floor it will not maintain highway speed. Downshift I can maintain speed, but as soon as I put it in high, it starts dropping speed again. Doing a rolling restart, clutch and shut the ignition off then restart. It will reset whatever and it usually will maintain highway speed without down shifting. The only running code was 42 which is HEGO(HO2S) sensor voltage high/system rich. Computer memory code 41(HEGO) sensor signal out of range/always lean or no switching detected. Also code 28 loss of primary tachometer(IDM) right side.
Recently, it started stalling and threw a computer memory code 14 ignition profile pickup(PIP) circuit failure and 88 dual plug input control failure.
Only been mine for about six months, but the spark plug wires looked pretty new till I noticed the coating was scuffed off of one couple months ago, fixed it with some tape. Did you know arcing makes a tick tick tick sound? So I was leaning toward doing the coil packs, wires and spark plugs, but with the rolling restart kind of fixing the power problem, is that the ICM? It was arcing to the alternator, but it was on the same side of the motor as the ICM would that have been enough to slightly fry the ICM.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Try something dumb and put a ground wire under one of the 3 bolts holding the DIS module to the intake manifold... When I did my turbo swap I just mounted the module to a piece of aluminum tied into the engine compartment and it would randomly stall after about 15 minutes of driving but start right back up and be fine for a couple hours at least... turns out the module needs to be grounded and it DOES NOT want a bolt in the 4th hole for whatever reason...

Most of your problems sound like something to do with the DIS module, the tach output is out of the drivers side coil but it'll run fine with just the passenger side coil...

I would also put on a new O2 sensor, depending on when your engine was built you'll have a 3 wire sensor or a 4 wire sensor, conveniently they have the same connector... The 3 wire engines were the early '90's and they had a MAP sensor on the top passenger side of the firewall right under the hood seal with a vacuum hose going to it. The 4 wire sensors went on the late '90's that had MAF sensors at the air box. Or just count how many wires are on your oxygen sensor now, also check the other side of the connector to see if both sides have the same amount of wires, a 3 wire sensor would work in place of a 4 but not the other way around unless you ground the 4th wire.