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I think i messed up.


haha yeah wick i know the stock set-up works well, but it just sounds way better with the cone set-up. you'll probably call me an idiot, but I just want it for the sound. If I notice a decrease in milage or power i'll always have the option to reinstall the factory setup.
 
id be more likely to call you an idiot if you WERENT installing it for just the sound :icon_thumby:. at least you arent expecting a huge HP increases with it like too many uninformed souls do.
 
well I tried extending the filter further from the sensor to no avail. I'm thinking that pos adapter I bought is messing with it. Im gonna try to make my own that bolts up to the stock MAF assembly. just wasted about 1/2 a day for nothing. lol.
 
You HAVE to keep the stock MAF housing. The sensor and ECU are tuned for that size and shape housing. It is programmed for the amount of air flowing through that area of an opening. If you change the size of that opening the computer will not read the correct amount of air flowing into the engine.

Leave the MAF housing alone and add an adapter to the front of it if you want the hot air cone intake on it. The have the adapters at most parts places and all over the place online. I have a metal one here that I bought and a plastic one that I made out of a drain piece from homedepot.
 
Thanks TI, that's the info I was looking for, I don't know why they sell it if it doesn't work though. awful aggrivating. Especially since I had the drain peice i was going to use to fab my own adapter and returned it when i found this one at auto zone. Oh well you live and learn. Thanks for the info. Even though I don't know why everyone is saying this cone is "hot air" or warm air" intake. I'm drawing the air from the same spot as the original intake. not to mention my intake box and pipeing are all "warm" to the touch after i've been driving on the stock setup, so it can't be all THAT cold. I know i'm going to start an argument here, but seriously, how much power can realistically be lost by installing a custom cone style intake? It's got to be negligible at best.
 
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your stock intake drew its air from behind the headlight. meaning the engine was recieving whatever the ambient air temp is. your new warm-air intake is exposed to the hot air trapped inside the engine compartment...which can be in excess of 160 degrees.

for every 10 degrees you lower the intake air temp, you gain one horsepower. so if its 60 degrees out, and you change your intake to an exposed underhood filter, you can easily loose 10HP at the flywheel.
 
sweet.

gave it another shot today and the shower drain adapter turned out to be super easy, only took me like 1/2 hour. runs fine with MAF plugged in now. :headbang: Thanks again for the help guys.
 

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