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How do you "properly" lube your tie rods and steering joints?


The ones that expose the surface they are protecting you grease till the old stuff comes out the sealed ones till the lose their dimples:icon_rofl::icon_rofl:

uhh... what? :dntknw:
 
So how do you get your boot back on(yeah, it sounds like a noob question...I know)? I popped mine off, but it refuses to go back on (been like this for half a year now). :black_eye:

no problem some are harder than other's. but if you take your time with it.

I run spicer industrial grade(blue boots) on everything and there boots are pretty easy to pop on and off.Some of the other brands are easier when they are warm.if your still having problems, get them warm not hot but warm and they become more plyable.and may be alittle easier.
 
how to lube

i was told when i bought the truck that i dont need to lube because they are sealed and dont need any additional lube. should i lube anyway? if so, can i use a standard lube gun? does it require any type of adapter to work. and lastly, where are the points that are suppose to be lubed?
 
you cant nor do you need to lube sealed joints.

newer trucks come with everything sealed. ball joints, u-joints, tie rod ends...are all non-servicable.
 
you cant nor do you need to lube sealed joints.

newer trucks come with everything sealed. ball joints, u-joints, tie rod ends...are all non-servicable.

I had someone tell me that the purpose of those grease needles that you can put on a grease gun is specifically for sticking into a "lifetime" lubricated joint boot and putting grease in there. :icon_confused:

IMHO, lifetime lubricated is a bunch of crap. I got about 65k miles out of the balljoints on the front of my Ranger and about the same out of my steering joints. The F-350 I drive for work has greaseable everything (from the factory that way) and nearly 100k miles on it with no problems for any joints.:annoyed:
 
hmm, i guess two different answers are better than none. would anyone else like to give a third opinion?
 
3rd opinion... I've lubed sealed jounts for customers that didn't have the pockets to replace their ball joints, just poked the boot with the needle, pumped er up, then put a dab of rtv over the hole. of course I see it as a temp fix, but it'll get you by.
 
I never add more than a few pumps. You don't need to press out "old" grease nor do you need to pump them until they bulge. IMO, it's a waste of $$$. Not much, I know, but there isn't any benefit to over greasing.

I grease my tractor trailer every oil change (10-15K miles) and my pickup every other. I have put over 250K miles on 2 different pickups and never had to change any joints. Granted, I didn't offroad very often. My old 85 Ranger used to get new joints frequently so it was never an issue. I beat the hell out of that truck! :D

There's more than one way to skin a hog...some just leave you with more meat.
 
I never add more than a few pumps. You don't need to press out "old" grease nor do you need to pump them until they bulge. IMO, it's a waste of $$$. Not much, I know, but there isn't any benefit to over greasing.

I grease my tractor trailer every oil change (10-15K miles) and my pickup every other. I have put over 250K miles on 2 different pickups and never had to change any joints. Granted, I didn't offroad very often. My old 85 Ranger used to get new joints frequently so it was never an issue. I beat the hell out of that truck! :D

There's more than one way to skin a hog...some just leave you with more meat.

When I over grease mine mud and water squirts out. I think that's a perfect reason to over grease em.
You also have to mind the fact were talkin bout two different breeds here... your road bound tractor or commuter car VS my mud and trail bound 4x4.
 
I had someone tell me that the purpose of those grease needles that you can put on a grease gun is specifically for sticking into a "lifetime" lubricated joint boot and putting grease in there.

needle adapters are for greasing needle zerk fittings:

74ctm07.jpg


you can puncture the boot (or just peel it back) and get some grease in the joint, but you cant get the grease UNDER the ball...where the pressure is and where the grease needs to be. greasing a sealed joint this way will have very limited success and wont do much to prolong the life of the joint (ive done this to stop joints from squeeking before, until the owner can get the vehicle in to have the joint replaced).

sealed joints work "OK" for most people. they tend to last longer than a neglected greasable joint. we had an '99 e-350 that came in regulaly with over 200K on it with factory sealed joints.
 
I've seen two different types of "dust covers," and they should be treated differently.

1. Smooth cup -- there is nothing to break. Knock yourself out and put 500 pumps in it if you want to.

2. Lipped cup -- I've seen these on some aftermarket balljoints. These can pop off hydraulically and can be rather difficult to pop back on.

Almost all cups are #1.
 

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