High RPM hick up's

[Viva*the*Ranger]

So Friday I went down and got my tranny flushed and fuel system cleaned out by Firestone. It idles way better, accelerates like new (under 4,000 rpm)and is getting much better gas mileage. On the other hand, when I punch it and it gets to around four grand, it will act almost like the rev limiter is set there, it will hit four grand or so, then cut out for a second, hit 4,500 then cut out again and so on. It only happens when I gun it though. I just discovered it this morning so I havn't tryed to pull codes. No CEL. Other then that it runs like a top.
Any ideas guys? Any help would be much appreciated.

-Chris

 

[fleck]

Could just be a coincidence and now you need new plugs/wires.

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

The plug wires have about 5,000 miles on them. But thanks for your reply man.

 

[Bob Ayers]

What about the plugs? If they were replaced, what brand are they?

 

[TomB1269]

Let me guess, you have between 75000 and 90000 miles on it (or possibly more if you have been lucky). You get a belt type squeal that goes away when the engine bay warms but will tend to show up when you come to a stop after driving on the highway in cooler weather. No engine codes will be found. If you have not already noticed it the "hick ups" will start to begin lower in the RPM range as the engine warms. IF I am even close, your syncronizer is on the way out.
I had a similar experience, did a full out tune-up, wires plugs, filters (all), buttoned it back up, and almost the next day on my way home from work I felt a tiny hick-up, so I pushed on it and the hick-ups got worse. I checked with everyone to figure it out as there where no codes. A friend hooked up the snap-on analyser and ran every perimeter possible and nothing. Put his had on the Cam position sensor that sets on the syncronizer and could feel it not running smooth. I took it to Ford (already had the appointment, could not get part in time to replace myself before appointment), Ford had TSB for this time of issue, basicly they monitor the EGR signal if it cycles over 150 or so to the max of 1053, it is a bad syncro shaft. The problem lies in the fact that the syncro is not monitored for fault codes over 2500 RPM.....IE Not CHECK ENGINE LIGHT or code to read................ :-( PS when the shaft fails completely the sensor strikes the housing stopping the shaft, shearing the shaft gear at the cam, and best of all stopping the oil pump.........wala new engine required.

 

[betomonroy]

Nice Job....

 

[ronclark]

Let me guess, you have between 75000 and 90000 miles on it (or possibly more if you have been lucky). You get a belt type squeal that goes away when the engine bay warms but will tend to show up when you come to a stop after driving on the highway in cooler weather. No engine codes will be found. If you have not already noticed it the "hick ups" will start to begin lower in the RPM range as the engine warms. IF I am even close, your syncronizer is on the way out.
I had a similar experience, did a full out tune-up, wires plugs, filters (all), buttoned it back up, and almost the next day on my way home from work I felt a tiny hick-up, so I pushed on it and the hick-ups got worse. I checked with everyone to figure it out as there where no codes. A friend hooked up the snap-on analyser and ran every perimeter possible and nothing. Put his had on the Cam position sensor that sets on the syncronizer and could feel it not running smooth. I took it to Ford (already had the appointment, could not get part in time to replace myself before appointment), Ford had TSB for this time of issue, basicly they monitor the EGR signal if it cycles over 150 or so to the max of 1053, it is a bad syncro shaft. The problem lies in the fact that the syncro is not monitored for fault codes over 2500 RPM.....IE Not CHECK ENGINE LIGHT or code to read................ :-( PS when the shaft fails completely the sensor strikes the housing stopping the shaft, shearing the shaft gear at the cam, and best of all stopping the oil pump.........wala new engine required.

I just have that done on a Co Truck it has 100000
had a fuel pump too

 

[Beef52751]

Mine does the same thing!!!
Beef

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Let me guess, you have between 75000 and 90000 miles on it (or possibly more if you have been lucky). You get a belt type squeal that goes away when the engine bay warms but will tend to show up when you come to a stop after driving on the highway in cooler weather. No engine codes will be found. If you have not already noticed it the "hick ups" will start to begin lower in the RPM range as the engine warms. IF I am even close, your syncronizer is on the way out.
I had a similar experience, did a full out tune-up, wires plugs, filters (all), buttoned it back up, and almost the next day on my way home from work I felt a tiny hick-up, so I pushed on it and the hick-ups got worse. I checked with everyone to figure it out as there where no codes. A friend hooked up the snap-on analyser and ran every perimeter possible and nothing. Put his had on the Cam position sensor that sets on the syncronizer and could feel it not running smooth. I took it to Ford (already had the appointment, could not get part in time to replace myself before appointment), Ford had TSB for this time of issue, basicly they monitor the EGR signal if it cycles over 150 or so to the max of 1053, it is a bad syncro shaft. The problem lies in the fact that the syncro is not monitored for fault codes over 2500 RPM.....IE Not CHECK ENGINE LIGHT or code to read................ :-( PS when the shaft fails completely the sensor strikes the housing stopping the shaft, shearing the shaft gear at the cam, and best of all stopping the oil pump.........wala new engine required.

You are the man!!! You explained my issues to the T. I have 75,687 on it with what sounds like a belt chirp and a semi rough idle. Thank you man. You just saved me a ton of $$$ and labor. That is exactly what I needed.

I have never had to replace one before, is it just like a distributer job? Any tricks?

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

What about the plugs? If they were replaced, what brand are they?

I replaced the plugs at the same time as the wires. I got the Autolight 764's I believe.

 

[TomB1269]

I did not replace it myself, as stated had an appointment at dealer before parts could be obtained. However, having pulled and dropped several distributors during my days with an old 35i cleveland, and reading the responses of others here. I sounds about as straight forward as a distributor swap, with the exception that an alignment tool is required to set up the time.......... If Wicked or one of the other mechanics on the board could jump in and detail the install or better yet if there is a way to make a post for syncro replacement that eveyone couls find as well as pulling together the various symptoms to syncro failure to a check list to save those that have not yet expereinced problems from total failure.

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Once again Tom, Thank you. I'm glad you joined our forum. If you lived in the Seattle area, I would buy you a beer.