Help with 83 Ranger with feed back carb

[5thRoot]

See the problem is that the choke wont engage. The choke works great when it engages. The stat opens it and the pull off works but for some reason it wont close. So I really just want to take all of that stuff out of the equation by putting a manual choke on.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It could be just a sticky mechanism spray that side of the carb good with carb cleaner. the three break away screws look like rivets holding the thermostat on, take a small chizzel and tap them counter clockwise to loosen them and you should be able to spin them out with your fingers. Then pull the thermostat off and clean the shafts and linkage good. You can get the right screws at any hardware store just match the thread and length. The thermostats that have the round electrical connector run off a different voltage than the spade type connector. Make sure the spring on the thermostat is center in the fork on the carb it both pushes it closed and pulls it open. Adjust the thermostat to where it fully closes the choke butterfly when you open the throttle about half way. Then start the motor and check the voltage going to the thermostat the sooner it opens the choke fully the better your gas mileage will be.

 

[wildbill23c]

I just took the heavy gauge wire the previous owner had entangled in the choke mechanism on my B2 and just tied the butterfly open and disconnected the electric choke crap, seems to work very well, even in cold weather it will still start, just have to feather the gas for a minute or 2 until it warms up a little then it will idle fine, figured that will do until I get the manual choke cable and get it installed.

Something else I did, and haven't figured out what it exactly does other than fixed the problem of the computer retarding the timing, was I pulled the relay out that's by the computer, no more retarded timing, and the truck started running great afterwards. Anyone know if this actually kills the computer or what the relay does? Can't find an answer anywhere.

I bypassed the EGR valve and my idle problem disappeared completely, now it idles smooth and doesn't sound like the timing is off anymore either.

Now if the shop could get my clutch master cylinder bled out so they can get it together so I can drive it again I would be even happier LOL.

 

[drgrcr]

The sensor in the air cleaner is the air temp sensor the feed back carb.

When the choke is setup correctly, cold engine start. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor let up the hold about a 1/4 down, this will set the choke for a cold start. When the choke is set right, the choke plate will be completely closed, after the engine starts the choke pull off located on the passenger side of the carb (in your picture it is the round canister with a piece of linkage connected to the choke and a vacuum line connected to the bottom of the carb that is manifold vacuum) will open the plate approx. a 1/4 to 3/16 of an inch, the amount is adjustable.

The engine rpm should be around 1400 to 1600 rpm while it is in the fast idle mode, this is also adjustable with a screw located on under the choke cap, it will be touching the fast idle cam until the choke cap starts to warm then it will kick down the idle speed as the engine warms up. The wire that connect to the choke cap should be connected to the stator wire on the back of the alternator, should be a white wire with a black stripe.

I have a 83 Ranger with the Dura Spark conversion/2300 1.08 and it works great with this setup, cold starts and drive away in 30' degree weather are not a problem.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

2.8

I just took the heavy gauge wire the previous owner had entangled in the choke mechanism on my B2 and just tied the butterfly open and disconnected the electric choke crap, seems to work very well, even in cold weather it will still start, just have to feather the gas for a minute or 2 until it warms up a little then it will idle fine, figured that will do until I get the manual choke cable and get it installed.

Something else I did, and haven't figured out what it exactly does other than fixed the problem of the computer retarding the timing, was I pulled the relay out that's by the computer, no more retarded timing, and the truck started running great afterwards. Anyone know if this actually kills the computer or what the relay does? Can't find an answer anywhere.

I bypassed the EGR valve and my idle problem disappeared completely, now it idles smooth and doesn't sound like the timing is off anymore either.

Now if the shop could get my clutch master cylinder bled out so they can get it together so I can drive it again I would be even happier LOL.

That is the EEC relay it is the power relay to the computer. It may idle and run good in neutral but you will have no power as the engine will be running on base timing it will not advance the timing. What it sounds like to me is your air bleed for the egr is plugged and it pulls the egr open and does not let it close. Usually it it not connected correct it pulls in filtered air to allow the egr to close. The five solenoids on the passenger side bulkhead it is the one closest to the heater motor. I believe it is the orange vacuum tube disconnect it from the solenoid and plug the computer relay back in. Disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 an hour and go through and make sure all the sensors are plugged in. Either the computer is working or its not if you dont have to pass emissions I wouldnt spend alot of time or money trying to make it work. Make sure all the vacuum lines and sensors are connected correct and connect the battery and see how she runs. OK

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/1983vacuumhoseguide.jpg
It is the orange vacuum line the way I got mine working is I sprayed WD thru it. It connects on the bottom of the air horn top of the carb and pulls filtered air in. to test if the egr is working stick your finger up under the diaphram and give the engine throttle the egr should open at higher rpms and close at lower rpms you can feel the diaphram move up and down with throttle position. You should have a vacuum diagram on the radiator support next to the hood latch.