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Help with 351W Engine Swap


Do0meR

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2007
Messages
11
Age
37
Transmission
Automatic
Hello,

I am in the process of dropping a fresh 351W in my '93 Ranger.
From what I have read on previous threads, I see that steering and exhaust manifold problems occur?

If someone can give me some tips and perhaps some pictures, on how and what was done, would be much appreciated.

I've also got a 3" body lift, which I think will help a bit. Truck is 4x4 also.

Any help or opinion is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Devin
 
where are you located?


cause its just easier to come and help with this many variaBLES
 
I am located in Dowling, Ontario, Canada :)

Engine is still being rebuilt :)
 
Check out my page http://www.cardomain.com/id/imagineanitemare. Like bobbywalter said there are way to many variables to give you a step by step on a swap. It all depends on what you can find and afford. Unless you can build headers you are stuck with the tightest fitting iron manifolds you can find. That and the body lift will ease some of the steering problems. Really other than that issue and a little more power it's the same as a 302 swap. I used the stock 2.9L lower mounts and 0.25in steel adapter plates to mount the engine. My reasoning on that was to get the engine as low as possible. If you can give me some specific questions I can answer them for you. If not I could go all day on things that need to be addressed.

Matt
 
Sorry to interrupt but i seem to be heading down the same path.
And i remember at one time some were going with a 95 aerostar steering box and shaft to gain additional clearance.

Nice truck by the way matt, what vechile is your fuel tank from?
 
I did the aerostar steering shaft. The rubber rag joint will fit but it gets cooked by the exhaust. The aerostar shaft may need to be clocked differently by pressing the pin out and redrilling for the correct location to get the wheel straight. There isn't enough tierod end to position the wheel correctly. My fuel tank is from a Bronco II but I'm tossing that in the future in favor of a bed mounted fuel cell.

Matt
 
Matt, how much did you spend on the 351w swap, total? Meaning engine, performance accessories, cooling system, etc.

Brenton
 
for the difference it makes and the pain, just throw a 302 in it.
 
If you look at my site I have change quite a bit, since added long tube headers, full MSD ignition and quite a few other things non-engine swap related. As far as books they might help but they tell you what kit to buy. That's a no brainer, there is much more information here to be honest. The cost on my swap is rather large, a normal swap is much less. I have around $5K in the engine alone, that was the only professionally built piece on the truck. Not adding in blown transmissions and other broken stuff; the stuff under the truck at this moment is about $10K, when I bought the stuff. Some stuff might be a little more now. Pick two of the three; fast, cheap and reliable...I chose 1 and 3.

Matt
 
Not everyone wants to take the easy road.

not really the easy way, but smarter, unless he's building a hell of a 351. a 351 in fairly stock form isnt going to make any more power than a good roller block 302. and at least you have some sort of room to work on itand can use headers and such. id rather stroke a 302 to 347 before id put a windsor in it. more wieght and much wider. but thats just me
 
not really the easy way, but smarter, unless he's building a hell of a 351. a 351 in fairly stock form isnt going to make any more power than a good roller block 302. and at least you have some sort of room to work on itand can use headers and such. id rather stroke a 302 to 347 before id put a windsor in it. more wieght and much wider. but thats just me
I guess a better way to say would be, Some people like to take the road less traveled.
 
in a 4x4 i have found its best to run the stock 351...efi...93/96....better economy and decent power in a 35 in tire equipped truck.....really the best engine to run is like a later 6.0 gm from a wrecked pickup or van.


if you run a gm 5.3 or 6.0 you can get fast, cheap,((being reletive/cost effective))and reliable plus good economy to boot.

its all in what you can get your mitts on for the best price.

where i live, often a good running ford 5.0 drivetrain t case to fan blade is 600 bux....but a 5.3 setup is 2200-2600. thing is by the time you get the stock 302 ford to run with the 5.3 it is a gas hog and will cost you 3 grand. a solid 351 on the otherhand usually runs 1500 case to fan but is good all around in a lifted setup with 35's.


so, unless your a purist, dont limit your options if you want to put alot of miles on it. i personally would do the lowest mile 6.0 gm i could find if i were to build a nice gas powered daily driver 4x4 ranger. its simply the most cost effective solution in my eyes in 2007.
 
Here is a pic of the headers i am going to use for my 351w swap


headers.jpg
 
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