help wiring my v8

[hddave1]

that orange tape was were i tryed the 2.8 duraspark convertion to wire the 302 up but it didnt work so i put it back the way i found it and used the tape to cover the bare wires where i had them spliced..the way you see it now in the pics is what i had when i had the 2.8 in the truck minus the tape

 

[hddave1]

IMO - Get one of these:

http://shop.ebay.com/?_nkw=1985+Ranger+EVTM&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Sure hope you're not only just using electrical tape on those connections.. =/

i might need a book before this is over lol ..i just need to know what wire goes where but looks like i cant get that

 

[hddave1]

well i got it to crank but i got no fire..i pulled a plug and with the plug wire on it i grounded the plug and had the engine cranking and there was no spark from the plug.. i have power to the red coil wire ..lol..this thing is about to woop me...i found (the hot when in start mod) wire under the dash hooked to a switch on the clutch pedal..go figure

 

[Psychopete]

well i got it to crank but i got no fire..i pulled a plug and with the plug wire on it i grounded the plug and had the engine cranking and there was no spark from the plug.. i have power to the red coil wire ..lol..this thing is about to woop me...i found (the hot when in start mod) wire under the dash hooked to a switch on the clutch pedal..go figure

I would have been lost without the EVTM (I went EFI -> carb) - it's so much easier to understand when you have the circuit in front of you. There's so many variations and different swaps - hard to give you answers on wiring, good to work against the vehicle specific diagrams. Plus they're good for later reference on more stupider problems.

 

[hddave1]

if the red wire on the coil has power when the key is on shouldnt i have spark at the sparkplugs.. am i missing somthing

 

[kimcrwbr1]

In your pic with the connectors by the module the single wire connector is the bat to the large terminal on the alternator. On the 8 wire connector grab the harness you removed and find the orange/lt blu wire that goes to the larger of the alternator plugs and the red lt green goes to the + pos on the coil and red power to the ignition module. Run a wire from the start solenoid red/lt blu to the white wire on the ignition module. From the ignition module run the green wire to the - neg on the coil and the other three to the dizzy either color to color or find the ground and hook it to black and the other two can go either way they are for the pickup coil. To check your coil turn the key on put a spark plug in the coil wire to the dizzy and set it on a good ground then take a jumper wire and short the negative side of the coil to ground quick touches and the plug should fire.

 

[hddave1]

ok i got the darn thing wired up to where the engine cranks and i got fire at the plugs.. hope im right..lol..

 

[hddave1]

Help

hey guys.. i got problems trying to wire my 302v8..here is what the problem is, the ignition coil is getting so hot that you cant touch it and the red pos. and green tach wires are melting...here is what i got..STARTER RELAY(mounts on the passenger side fender) has a wire that is hot only with the key in the start position, has no power in the run position(runs the starter)...
... ok..COIL .. has 2 wires 1 green (tach) and 1 red(pos+) the green is tied to the green on the ignition module.. the red wire is tied to the white wire on the module and also tied to a hot(that is hot in start and run)...
.. IGNITION MODULE.. the red wire is tied to a hot (only hot in run no power in start) ... with it hooked up the way it is, i can turn the key to start and the engine cranks and i have spark from the sparkplugs ( weak looking spark but there is spark) ...

 

[hddave1]

could it be that i need a ballast resistor.. im using the round coil

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The pos on the coil goes to the red on the module and key on power only. Run a wire from the start solenoid ignition start only to the white wire on the module. The neg on the coil goes to green on the module. All the white wire does is retard the timing for quick starts so you only want power to it in the start position. It sounds like the coil needs a ballast resistor to lower the voltage to 8 volts. If you use the stock coil the square one you will get better spark and it runs on battery voltage you probably fried the coil. If you use the stock coil or one that runs on battery voltage you can run the stock plugs for a 302 with the TFI ignition and the heat range will be correct. If you fried the module you can always use the 4 wire HEI setup it is simple and dependable and it goes with the duraspark dizzy. I will see if I can find the thread with the wiring diagram.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm

It is real easy and more dependable than the duraspark as long as you use a good heat sink

 

[hddave1]

The pos on the coil goes to the red on the module and key on power only. Run a wire from the start solenoid ignition start only to the white wire on the module. The neg on the coil goes to green on the module. All the white wire does is retard the timing for quick starts so you only want power to it in the start position. It sounds like the coil needs a ballast resistor to lower the voltage to 8 volts. If you use the stock coil the square one you will get better spark and it runs on battery voltage you probably fried the coil. If you use the stock coil or one that runs on battery voltage you can run the stock plugs for a 302 with the TFI ignition and the heat range will be correct. If you fried the module you can always use the 4 wire HEI setup it is simple and dependable and it goes with the duraspark dizzy. I will see if I can find the thread with the wiring diagram.

i still have the stock ranger square coil and i have the wires that plug into it...cant remember where the wires went from there but if i could do away with the round coil and get my dizzy, ignition module and the square coil wired up then that might be what i need..im gonna assume that the stock ranger coil dont need a ballest resistor to help it drop the voilts down ..

 

[kimcrwbr1]

i still have the stock ranger square coil and i have the wires that plug into it...cant remember where the wires went from there but if i could do away with the round coil and get my dizzy, ignition module and the square coil wired up then that might be what i need..im gonna assume that the stock ranger coil dont need a ballest resistor to help it drop the voilts down ..

That is correct Key on hot goes to the coil pos and the red on the module green from the module goes to neg on the coil and the tach. White from the module goes to the start wire on the start solenoid and black orange purple go to the dizzy it`s that simple just make sure the red is hot in start and run for the coil and the module.

 

[hddave1]

i guess i got it..i wired it with a ballest resistor between the red coil wire and the red module wire and hook those wires to a wire that was hot in the key on and key on start.. green tied to green on the module and white was tied to a wire to the starter relay on the pass. fender to a wire that was hot only in start and not hot in run...i got the engine running and now just need to tune the carb. alittle and clean up..ohh and get exhaust... thanks for all your help

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool get the timing set then adjust the idle air needles for either the highest rpm or vacuum pressure. Mine runs best with the advance on manifold vacuum at 5 degrees or 15 with the advance plugged into the tree on the intake. Try different timing settings and make sure and adjust the carb after you adjust the timing.