Help me diagnose this engine problem please...

[Kalwren]

Thanks again for all the replies!

I'm still new to this engine and I've been doing research tonight on what the coil looks like.

It appears to be completely different than any other coil I've looked at. Coils are typically a round cylinder with a hole on the top to plug into the center of the distributor cap.

Whats the one for my Ranger supposed to look like? The pictures of the ones I've seen so far look like a plug, or it looks like black and yellow rectangle that has all the spark plug wires connected to it. Am I just crazy? lol

if you look at the coil usually a bad one will look burned on either or both sides. just slightly different coloring. that's a pretty good sign of a fried coil.

 

[Bryan22]

In 94 yours should be a round cylinder type, like you're used to seeing. anything 95 and later is distributorless and is totally different. either way though they can be tested. have you looked for yours? or just looked at pictures?

 

[Kalwren]

I took my truck in to my mechanic again and got it back today.

Again, the mechanic was unable to duplicate the problem and make the engine fail while he had it. It's frustrating at this point. He's had the truck a total of 4 days and couldn't duplicate the problem.

I had them replace the ignition coil. I've read several posts that people have had a problem with it getting hot and causing a stall and no-start condition while the engine is hot.

I had some other work done on it (replaced the intake manifold gasket - it was leaking coolant)

$548 later, my truck broke down again on the way home.

So I'm at a loss. I'm not sure what this problem could be.

At least tonight on the way home, the Check Engine light came on. It's not done that before. I was accelerating from a stop and I was barely picking up any speed, but I held the accelerator in the same position. After a few seconds of it chugging, the Check Engine light came on. A few seconds later, the engine sped up and I was able to drive normally for a few more miles. While driving, the check engine light turned off.

I don't know much about cars that have computers in them. Being the CEL came on, will there now be a code for a mechanic to pull from the engine?
(I stopped at Autozone and they can't pull codes on vehicles that are older than 1996.. lame!)

Also, could it be a problem with the Mass Air Flow sensor? When I pulled the boot off and looked at my air cleaner, it appeared that there was some oil inside the rubber intake boot that goes between the MAF and the air intake for the engine. This doesn't seem like it would make sense though, because of the direction of the air flow. Should there be any oil inside that boot?

Is it possible the oil got on the MAF and is clogging the reading, causing the problem with the stall and no-start condition while it's hot? I've read on here that it's good to clean them from time to time.

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. I need my truck fixed and now it's getting stupid expensive.

 

[dmch82bl8]

I just had a problem w/ my 1994 3.0L Ranger that I believe is a cracked head or blown head gasket or something of the like, and found out that for two remanufactred heads, gasket set, and new head bolt set was going to cost just over $400 just for parts. So I looked around and found a used 3.0L from the same year Ranger from a local wrecking yard, for $400 . With tax and 1 year warranty, I ended up paying $498.00 total. I took the engine home, pulled my old engine and spent a few days transferring parts. I then re-installed the new (used) engine and it runs great. Even a lot more power than my old engine. This might be something to look into doing, if you can't figure out what's wrong w/ your engine. Then you'll have your original engine that you, or a shop can completely rebuild the way you want it.
Just throwing this out there as an alternative to keeping on throwing money into your engine.

 

[Kalwren]

I appreciate the information. I've considered this.

I don't have the know-how or the tools to remove and install an engine. I don't know what the cost would be to have it done, but I wouldn't think the labor would be all that bad.

But yeah, I've definitely considered this as an option.

I just had a problem w/ my 1994 3.0L Ranger that I believe is a cracked head or blown head gasket or something of the like, and found out that for two remanufactred heads, gasket set, and new head bolt set was going to cost just over $400 just for parts. So I looked around and found a used 3.0L from the same year Ranger from a local wrecking yard, for $400 . With tax and 1 year warranty, I ended up paying $498.00 total. I took the engine home, pulled my old engine and spent a few days transferring parts. I then re-installed the new (used) engine and it runs great. Even a lot more power than my old engine. This might be something to look into doing, if you can't figure out what's wrong w/ your engine. Then you'll have your original engine that you, or a shop can completely rebuild the way you want it.
Just throwing this out there as an alternative to keeping on throwing money into your engine.

 

[fastpakr]

You can pull your own codes very easily - all you need is a paper clip. There's an article in the Tech Library here that will get you going.

 

[Kalwren]

I didn't see anything there about how to pull your own codes with a paperclip.

Can you link the article to me please?

I read some stuff about the TFI module. It appears that could be the culprit, too.

 

[fastpakr]

Look under the malfunction indicator lamp paragraph. Disregard the drivel about only using it in the field. It is exactly the same test you would run with the scan tool. Post back if you have any questions.

 

[Aj]

not sure if you fixed the problem yet but if it helps my 94 was doin the same thing a week ago. while driving if you put the accelerator to the floor it would bog and die, it ended up being a clogged fuel pump filter/strainer not giving sufficiant amounts of fuel. it flashed codes saying lean banks #1 and #2

 

[1stHand]

94 coil

my 1994 3.0 coil is square;
i just paid 17.50 for a new one.

 

[graff104]

my 1994 3.0 coil is square;
i just paid 17.50 for a new one.

really? Do you have a distributor? Also do you have a cam syncro?

'94 have the round coil and a distributor and '95 had the square coil and a cam syncro as far as I have always know. Also they switched form obd1 to obd2 that year. At least thats what I have always thought was true.

 

[1stHand]

ya i just replaced my stock 'square' coil, weak spark was eating cap/rotor

really? Do you have a distributor? Also do you have a cam syncro?

'94 have the round coil and a distributor and '95 had the square coil and a cam syncro as far as I have always know. Also they switched form obd1 to obd2 that year. At least thats what I have always thought was true.

 

[graff104]

Maybe fastpakr can sort out my confusion here.. He seems to usually know whats going on with the 3.0

 

[1stHand]

got it

 

[graff104]

It appears to be completely different than any other coil I've looked at. Coils are typically a round cylinder with a hole on the top to plug into the center of the distributor cap.

Whats the one for my Ranger supposed to look like? The pictures of the ones I've seen so far look like a plug, or it looks like black and yellow rectangle that has all the spark plug wires connected to it.

Lol we are just a little confused here thats the "round" cylinder one. I guess its not really round but compared to the other ones it is. I guess this thread and get back on track now.

So did we get the codes pulled yet?