Heat issue...99 Crown Vic

[rusty ol ranger]

So...i just bought this thing to DD for 1100 bucks because my B2 is proving to be more project then DD...

Runs good, drives good, 225k miles...

Anyways...ive got a strange heating issue. It seems to take a while for the heater to actually get warm...even though the engine gets to temp normally. However...once it gets warm its not THAT warm and slowly gets less warm the longer you drive. HOWEVER...if you shut the HVAC totally off for a bit, turn it on, it blows hot for a few minutes then slowly cools off.

I thought maybe the core was plugged...but both hoses are same temp. But i noticed the cooling system is not making pressure...at all. I cant see or smell coolant anywhere (athough i thought i got a whiff around the resivor). Its also not going in the oil or out the tailpipe.

I know the kid i bought it from put a radiator in it...when i fired it up this morning it kinda gargled from the heater core area.

Would air in the system cause this? Possible radiator cap bad? Any ideas??

 

[2011Supercab]

Either a plugged heater core or a big air bubble in the heater core are my guesses.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Either a plugged heater core or a big air bubble in the heater core are my guesses.

I may have a lead....

I plugged in my scanner and it said the engine was at 172 despite the gauge showing half...where its at going down the road.

OE temp is 195....i see 170 as an alternate temp...i think i even seen 160. Wondering if someone stuck one of those in

 

[scotts90ranger]

On my '97 Ranger both heater hoses were warm but I had jack for heater output... flushed out the heater core with a drill pump both ways and it finally works just fine...

I mean you might be up to it with the T stat, people love putting low temp thermostats in stuff for no apparent reason...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

On my '97 Ranger both heater hoses were warm but I had jack for heater output... flushed out the heater core with a drill pump both ways and it finally works just fine...

I mean you might be up to it with the T stat, people love putting low temp thermostats in stuff for no apparent reason...

Im gonna try flushing the core too.

Forgot to mention i changed the cap yesterday, now the gargleing is real bad. I checked the temp my scanner after the 15mi drive to work it was at 182...and the heat was better.

I think i need to bleed it, flush the heater core, and i ordered the proper 195t stat.

This might be a dumb question but how do you burp a system without a actual radiator cap?

 

[SenorNoob]

There is usually a plug on the back of the intake in that situation. I find it easiest to file the reservoir a little over full and milk the upper radiator hose.

 

[sgtsandman]

Another option is to pull a heater hose and have the open end be the high point or the heater core, depending on how the core is oriented. When coolant comes out of one them, most of the air should be out of the system.

Unless the engine is one of those notorious for trapping air. Then filling the system, idle engine for a minute, reving the engine to 3,500 rpm for a minute, shut the engine off and top off the reservoir. Rinse and repeat about 10 times. I had to do that on the 2014 Escape recently. The revving the engine is critical for forcing the air bubbles out of the system and the procedure makes sure you don't throw an over temp code while burping the air out of the system.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Well guys i figured id update this...

After a few days of driving with the new cap the gargling went away...heat still wasnt great but it was atleast consistant.

I put the new thermostat in last night...the old one looked recent but it was indeed a 170*. I put the 195 in it and now itll roast you like a turkey.

I drove it for 15min, came back, let it idle for 15min to make sure it wouldnt overheat, which the gauge creeped up about 3\4 way through the normal band but then the fan (electric) kicked on and it went right back to half.

So...i think everything is dandy now.

Now to figure out why my lowbeams dont work