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Hard to start after DuraSpark


Make sure the choke thermostat spring is in the middle of the fork lever in the housing so it both opens and closes the choke by turning it.
 
Need to adjust my choke linkage. Went to push the gas pedal for start up and it wouldn't move but I pushed it hard and it finally functioned as it should but then my high idle was gone for cold starts. Ran great but got home and it was idling at 1400 rpm in the driveway when today it ran at 800rpm (warmed up fully that is) after I first got it running. More or less its my choke, worse comes to worse, I'll turn it into a manual choke.
 
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Yea they can be tricky to get working. Make sure the choke and pulloff linkage is moving free. When it is cold adjust the choke thermostat to close the choke all the way when you open the throttle. To adjust the V-notch push the pulloff all the way in and measure the gap between the air horn and the choke butterfly the gap should be about 3/16" open and the high idle screw should be on the v-notch on the cam. The 1/4 inch screw gets you there it should be close. Start the engine and adjust the high idle speed I have my preheater door still working so I adjusted it about 1000 rpm and as the air heats up going in the idle speed goes up too. Once you have that then you can adjust the spring tension on the thermostat time the choke to hold it at high idle about 3-4 mins until it starts opening the choke and that it is fully open by the time the engine is up to temp or just before the coolant thermostat opens. The key is getting the choke butterfly and linkage to move free the high idle cam just uses gravity to drop out of play when the choke is open. GL
 
My hard starting problem was all due to a poor electrical connection on the wire to the coil where I had it spliced to the 8-wire plug from the firewall.

Now, the engine starts fine and runs very well.

I still don't have the electric choke operating correctly, but I have plenty of instructions on how to get it done.
 

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